{"id":5786,"date":"2024-09-02T19:36:55","date_gmt":"2024-09-02T17:36:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=5786"},"modified":"2024-09-03T10:29:15","modified_gmt":"2024-09-03T08:29:15","slug":"tre-cime-a-noclah-na-chate-rifugio-auronzo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=5786","title":{"rendered":"Tre Cime a noc\u013eah na chate Rifugio Auronzo"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

S\u00fa to u\u017e dva roky, \u010do sme i\u0161li prv\u00fd raz cez meste\u010dko Dobbiaco (nem. Toblach) a Janino na kruhovom objazde zmer\u010dil podobize\u0148 ikony Dolomitov – Tre Cime (nem. Drei Zinnen). „Mamina, tam mus\u00edme \u00eds\u0165!“ Nie je probl\u00e9m, pomyslela som si, v\u0161ak z Valle Aurina (nem. Ahrntal) to m\u00e1me k za\u010diatku spoplatnen\u00e9ho \u00faseku len nie\u010do cez hodinu. Ej, nemohla som sa m\u00fdli\u0165 viac. K onomu za\u010diatku spoplatnen\u00e9ho \u00faseku sme sa o deviatej r\u00e1no ani len nedostali. Cesta bola uzavret\u00e1, preto\u017ee parkovisk\u00e1 okolo Rifugio Auronzo boli pln\u00e9. Bezn\u00e1dejne plno bolo aj dole a okolo jazera Misurina. Ale ne\u013eutujem – u\u017eili sme si Lago di Landro (nem. Durensee) a Lago di Dobbiaco (nem. Toblachersee)<\/a>. Ve\u010f raz …<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Rifugio Auronzo, v pozad\u00ed Cadini di Misurina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

„Ve\u010f raz…“ pri\u0161lo teraz, v auguste 2024. A \u010do by som to bola za matku – turistku, keby som sa okam\u017eite po potvrden\u00ed rezerv\u00e1cie ubytovania do soboty 31.8.2024 neobzrela po mo\u017enosti prenocovania na chate Rifugio Auronzo<\/a>? Nebol probl\u00e9m, akur\u00e1t n\u00e1s upozornili, \u017ee si m\u00e1me zobra\u0165 spac\u00e1ky, lebo budeme spa\u0165 vo viacposte\u013eovej izbe. (Ak ste \u010dlenmi Alpenverein, budete ma\u0165 z\u013eavu – treba im predlo\u017ei\u0165 karti\u010dku tejto organiz\u00e1cie. Na str\u00e1nke to nap\u00edsan\u00e9 nemaj\u00fa, ale ke\u010f som to spomenula pri dohadovan\u00ed ubytovania a stravy, pani mi to potvrdila.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Tre Cime z ju\u017enej strany<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Myslela som si, \u017ee u\u017e ost\u00e1va len t\u00e1 naj\u013eah\u0161ia \u010das\u0165 – napl\u00e1nova\u0165 cestu hore na parkovisko. Ehm, neverili by ste, ak\u00e9 boli TOTO man\u00e9vre. Prvou ranou bola cena za pou\u017eitie spoplatnenej cesty a parkovanie pri chate. Do minul\u00e9ho roka bola cesta k chate Rifugio Auronzo spoplatnen\u00e1 sumou 30,- eur na 24 hod\u00edn. Od tohto roka suma s\u00edce ostala, ale ak prekro\u010d\u00edte 12 hod\u00edn, na\u00fa\u010dtuj\u00fa v\u00e1m ju znova. Mne to vych\u00e1dzalo, \u017ee budeme dokonca hore parkova\u0165 aj viac ako 24 hod\u00edn a \u017ee ma zrejme skasn\u00fa o 90,- eur. A to u\u017e sa mi panenky nie \u017ee preto\u010dili, ale zabudli sa pri tom pret\u00e1\u010dan\u00ed zastavi\u0165, preto\u017ee to by bolo viac ako samotn\u00fd noc\u013eah vo viacposte\u013eovej izbe s ra\u0148ajkami bez z\u013eavy cez Alpenverein.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Tre Cime zo severnej strany, poza ne u\u017e i\u0161iel d\u00e1\u017e\u010f<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u010eal\u0161ou ranou bola ot\u00e1zka, KDE necha\u0165 auto, ak n\u00edm nep\u00f4jdeme hore. Jazero Misurina? Odtia\u013e by sme si to museli vy\u0161\u013eapa\u0165 hore pe\u0161i, \u010do by teoreticky nebol probl\u00e9m, ale my sme sa chceli najm\u00e4 pomota\u0165 hore okolo troch ve\u017e\u00ed a prejs\u0165 sa na v\u0161etky tie super truper zaru\u010dene megov\u00e9 miesta, odkia\u013e sa robia nezabudnute\u013en\u00e9 fotky. Presne viem, kam by ma Janino s t\u00fdmto n\u00e1padom poslal po predo\u0161l\u00fdch piatich d\u0148och, po\u010das ktor\u00fdch by som ho preh\u00e1\u0148ala hodiny a hodiny po kopcoch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A prich\u00e1dza tretia, predposledn\u00e1, rana. Mohli by sme necha\u0165 auto na parkovisku pri jazere Misurina alebo k\u00fasok vy\u0161\u0161ie oproti kempu a zobra\u0165 autobus \u010d\u00edslo tu\u0161\u00edm 31. Prev\u00e1dzkovate\u013e Dolomiti bus, ktor\u00e9mu t\u00e1to linka patr\u00ed, m\u00e1 str\u00e1nku len v talian\u010dine a viete \u010do bola sranda? Ani moja kni\u017en\u00e1 kamo\u0161ka z Janova, roden\u00e1 Talianka, sa v nej nedok\u00e1zala poriadne orientova\u0165 a nena\u0161la inform\u00e1cie o tom, \u010di treba k\u00fapi\u0165 l\u00edstky vopred alebo sa bud\u00fa da\u0165 k\u00fapi\u0165 aj u vodi\u010da (a nechajte si nie\u010do tak\u00e9to na posledn\u00fa chv\u00ed\u013eu, ke\u010f v batohu budete vliec\u0165 spac\u00e1ky a stat\u00edv). Vyzeralo to, \u017ee sa daj\u00fa k\u00fapi\u0165 len cez ich appku, ktor\u00e1 je h\u00e1dajte \u010do! \u010ciasto\u010dne v angli\u010dtine, ale podstatn\u00e9 veci s\u00fa zase len v talian\u010dine. Aj by som sa zasmiala, keby to neznamenalo, \u017ee h\u013ead\u00e1m \u010falej.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Kaplnka pod Sasso di Sesto (2539 m)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Do \u00favahy pripadalo aj to, \u017ee by sme hore i\u0161li a\u017e niekedy poobede a cestou z Corvary, kde sme boli ubytovan\u00ed, by sme sa niekde pomotali. Napr\u00edklad by sme sa s davmi turistov i\u0161li pozrie\u0165 ku jazeru Sorapis a a\u017e potom by sme \u0161li hore k Rifugio Auronzo. Nebola som si v\u0161ak ist\u00e1, \u010di by sme stihli prejs\u0165 v\u0161etko, \u010do by sme chceli. A kde by n\u00e1s zastihla tma. A tak som sa nakoniec rozhodla necha\u0165 auto na platenom parkovisku pri Lago di Landro a previez\u0165 sa hore kyvadlov\u00fdm autobusom 444<\/a> prem\u00e1vaj\u00facim z meste\u010dka Dobbiaco (auto pri tomto jazere m\u00f4\u017eete necha\u0165 len 24 hod\u00edn a parkovn\u00e9 v\u00e1s vyjde na 15,- eur). P\u00fdtate sa pre\u010do na\u0148 nenast\u00fa\u0165 pri Misurine? Preto\u017ee tento autobus tam cestou hore nestoj\u00ed (cestou dole \u00e1no). \u0160tvrt\u00e1 rana v plnej par\u00e1de. Mimochodom, na kyvadlov\u00fa dopravu si mus\u00edte l\u00edstky k\u00fapi\u0165 vopred a je jedno, na ktorej zast\u00e1vke nast\u00fapite. P\u00e1r l\u00edstkov nech\u00e1vaj\u00fa vo\u013en\u00fdch, ale tie sa rozchytaj\u00fa u\u017e v meste\u010dku Dobbiaco a na \u010fal\u0161\u00edch zast\u00e1vkach v\u00e1s vodi\u010d po\u0161le do….inej destin\u00e1cie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Lago dei Piani – predn\u00e9 a zadn\u00e9, v\u013eavo hrani\u010dn\u00fd hrebe\u0148 s Rak\u00faskom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po peripeti\u00e1ch s t\u00fdm, kde necha\u0165 auto a ako sa prepravi\u0165 hore kone\u010dne posledn\u00fd augustov\u00fd de\u0148 parkujeme pri Lago di Landro. Je desa\u0165 hod\u00edn doobeda a l\u00edstky m\u00e1me k\u00fapen\u00e9 na autobus o 11:30 (nechala som si rezervu na prepravu z Corvary). Kupujem parkovn\u00e9, l\u00edstok d\u00e1vam za predn\u00e9 sklo a ideme na k\u00e1vi\u010dku a kol\u00e1\u010dik do re\u0161taur\u00e1cie pri jazere. Pop\u00edjame, debat\u00edme a obdivujeme toto nezabudnute\u013en\u00e9 miesto. Brehy s\u00fa pieskov\u00e9, tak\u017ee netrv\u00e1 dlho a u\u017e sme pri vode. Vy\u0165ahujem pr\u0161ipl\u00e1\u0161\u0165, d\u00e1vam ho na zem a sad\u00e1m si na\u0148, aby som po\u010dkala, k\u00fdm sa Janino vyja\u0161\u00ed stavan\u00edm priehradiek a h\u013aben\u00edm r\u00f4znych pot\u00f4\u010dikov. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Rifugio Antonio Locatelli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zhruba o dvan\u00e1stej sme hore a mierime rovno do chaty. Jednak sme hladn\u00ed a jednak sa chcem op\u00fdta\u0165, \u010di je mo\u017en\u00e9 necha\u0165 si tam aspo\u0148 spac\u00e1ky, aby sme ich ne\u0165ahali v\u0161ade so sebou (m\u00f4j ruksak nie je zrovna \u013eahk\u00fd a to u\u017e v \u0148om nem\u00e1m fo\u0165\u00e1k). Francesca n\u00e1s informuje, \u017ee sa v pohode m\u00f4\u017eeme ubytova\u0165 a dokonca n\u00e1m pon\u00faka namiesto viacl\u00f4\u017ekovej zdie\u013eanej izby izbu trojposte\u013eov\u00fa. Za doplatok 20,- eur n\u00e1m tam nikoho tretieho neubytuj\u00fa. Nev\u00e1ham, pripl\u00e1cam. Celkovo n\u00e1s noc na tejto chate vych\u00e1dza na stovku – ja s polpenziou (ve\u010deru si rozdel\u00edme, Janino nie je ve\u013ek\u00fd jed\u00e1k) a Janino s ra\u0148ajkami, s uplatnen\u00edm z\u013eavy na Alpenverein. Ke\u010f si odmysl\u00edm t\u00fa dvacku navy\u0161e za s\u00fakromie, vych\u00e1dza n\u00e1s noc\u013eah v s\u00fakromnej izbe so z\u013eavou pre \u010dlenov Alpenverein (kde nepotrebujeme spac\u00e1ky, lebo s\u00fa tam periny) rovnako, ako by sme spali v zdie\u013eanej izbe a bez z\u013eavy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Fotka z jednej z jask\u00fd\u0148 nad Rifugio Antonio Locatelli – fotil Jan\u00edk<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Z batohov vyber\u00e1m v\u0161etko, \u010do nebudeme potrebova\u0165, a na v\u00fdlet okolo Tre Cime beriem len m\u00f4j ruksak. Dole sa e\u0161te zastav\u00edme na r\u00fdchly obed a u\u017e sme na ceste ku kaplnke a chate Lavaredo. Mo\u017eno je to popoludn\u00edm, mo\u017eno je to po\u010das\u00edm, ale nie je tu ve\u013ea \u013eud\u00ed. Od chaty Lavaredo st\u00fapame do sedla s rovnak\u00fdm n\u00e1zvom a m\u00ed\u0148ame skupinku \u010desk\u00fdch turistov. D\u00e1vame sa do re\u010di a k\u00fasok ideme spolo\u010dne. Neviem, kam pokra\u010duj\u00fa oni, my mierime k \u010fal\u0161ej chate – Rifugio A. Locatelli (nem. Drei Zinnen h\u00fctte). Nad \u0148ou je v mas\u00edve Sasso de Sesto (2539 m) nieko\u013eko r\u00f4zne ve\u013ek\u00fdch jaskyniek (alebo sk\u00f4r dier vyh\u013aben\u00fdch do skaly), z ktor\u00fdch sa daj\u00fa robi\u0165 pekn\u00e9 fotky. A do ktor\u00fdch sa te\u0161\u00ed m\u00f4j mal\u00fd kamz\u00edk – lebo „mamina, tam \u0165a proste mus\u00edm odfoti\u0165“. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sme nazad pri chate, ke\u010f po\u010dujem hrmenie. Zhor\u0161ovanie po\u010dasia sledujem odkedy sme vyst\u00fapili z autobusu, ale vyzeralo to, \u017ee d\u00e1\u017e\u010f a b\u00farky n\u00e1s ob\u00eddu. Sna\u017e\u00edm sa otvori\u0165 moju windy aplik\u00e1ciu, aby skontrolovala radar, ale nem\u00e1m sign\u00e1l. Rozhodujeme sa preto \u00eds\u0165 \u010do najr\u00fdchlej\u0161ie nazad k chate Auronzo, bez zast\u00e1vky na Rifugio A. Locatelli -S. Innerkofler. Padaj\u00fa prv\u00e9 da\u017e\u010fov\u00e9 kvapky a ja r\u00fdchlo vy\u0165ahujem na\u0161e star\u00e9 pr\u0161ipl\u00e1\u0161te v tvare pon\u010da, ktor\u00e9 sme si s Jankom k\u00fapili h\u00e1dam pred viac ako p\u00e4tn\u00e1stimi rokmi. Za Jan\u00edkom to dospel\u00e1cke pon\u010do vlaje ako nevestin z\u00e1voj na svadobn\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch, ale \u00fa\u010del pln\u00ed. V lejaku sa lopot\u00edme nazad do sedla Lavaredo len aby sme zistili, \u017ee z ju\u017enej strany Tre Cime je sucho a nepadla tu ani kvapka. Vyzliekame pon\u010d\u00e1 a pomal\u0161\u00edm tempom sa vraciame k chate. V\u0161ade sa zatiahlo, dolinu Valle de Lavaredo poriadne ani nevidie\u0165, tak tam leje. Cadini di Misurina si budem musie\u0165 necha\u0165 na inokedy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Sp\u00e4\u0165 na ju\u017enej strane Tre Cime<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Z chaty Auronzo vych\u00e1dzame znovu a\u017e okolo \u0161iestej, aby sme presk\u00famali dva tunely, ktor\u00e9 vid\u00edme z okna. Podobn\u00fdch tunelov je v celej oblasti oko troch ve\u017e\u00ed mnoho. S\u00fa pozostatkami z \u010dias prvej svetovej vojny, kedy tu a v okolit\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch proti sebe bojovali talianske a rak\u00fasko-uhorsk\u00e9 vojsk\u00e1. Pre oblas\u0165 Tre Cime ostan\u00fa v spojitosti s vojnou nav\u017edy v pam\u00e4ti najm\u00e4 dve men\u00e1. Prv\u00fdm je Caesare Battisti, patriot Talianska a Trentina, ktor\u00e9ho popravili Rak\u00fa\u0161ania. Druh\u00fdm sa stal Sepp Innerkofler, tirolsk\u00fd horolezec a zakladate\u013e rovnomennej chaty, ktor\u00fd 4.7.1915 zomrel pri obrane svojej vlasti. Innerkofler, sa chopil zbran\u00ed, aby bojoval s t\u00fdmi, ktor\u00fdch vn\u00edmal ako votrelcov a nepriate\u013eov – so svojimi talianskymi susedmi, ktor\u00ed na\u0148ho kedysi m\u00e1vali z ne\u010falek\u00fdch \u0161t\u00edtov, alebo s ktor\u00fdmi si po\u010das letn\u00fdch ve\u010derov zafaj\u010dil na horskej chate (pred prvou svetovou vojnou patrila t\u00e1to oblas\u0165 do Rak\u00fasko-Uhorska, nebola s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou Talianska).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

O pol \u00f4smej sa del\u00edme o chutn\u00fa ve\u010deru a zaliezame do izby. Steny chaty s\u00fa s\u00edce tenk\u00e9, ale na \u0161\u0165astie v\u0161etci turisti dodr\u017eiavaj\u00fa zlat\u00e9 pravidlo no\u010dn\u00e9ho k\u013eudu. Napriek tichu a tme sp\u00edm klasicky zle, ako v\u017edy na novom mieste. A bez m\u00f4jho vank\u00fa\u0161ika. Od piatej u\u017e som hore na trvalo. Budia ma aut\u00e1 prich\u00e1dzaj\u00face na parkovisko. Okolo \u0161iestej vzd\u00e1vam snahy e\u0161te si trochu zdriemnu\u0165, obliekam na seba v\u0161etky vrstvy a idem s fo\u0165\u00e1kom a mal\u00fdm stat\u00edvom von lovi\u0165 pekn\u00e9 z\u00e1bery. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
V\u00fdchod slnka nad Rifugio Auronzo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cestou nazad do Bratislavy Jan\u00edk kon\u0161tatuje, \u017ee Tre Cime ho nijak zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 neo\u010darili. Viac sa mu p\u00e1\u010dili Cinque Torri, kde sme boli v utorok. Mus\u00edm s n\u00edm s\u00fahlasi\u0165, tie\u017e ma toto miesto ve\u013emi neoh\u00farilo. Hej, skaly. Hej, zauj\u00edmav\u00fd tvar. Ale \u010faleko viac sa mi p\u00e1\u010dilo okolie. Do N\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku Tre Cime sa ur\u010dite vr\u00e1time, ale zva\u017eujem sk\u00f4r v\u00fdlety z dedinky Sesto. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Poh\u013ead na Cadini di Misurina z chaty v sobotu ve\u010der<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ten ist\u00fd poh\u013ead v nede\u013eu o siedmej r\u00e1no<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Za\u010diatok a koniec trasy<\/td>Rifugio Auronzo<\/td><\/tr>
Trvanie t\u00fary<\/td>3,5 h<\/td><\/tr>
D\u013a\u017eka trasy<\/td>9 km<\/td><\/tr>
Prev\u00fd\u0161enie<\/td>cca 400 m<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

S\u00fa to u\u017e dva roky, \u010do sme i\u0161li prv\u00fd raz cez meste\u010dko Dobbiaco (nem. Toblach) a Janino na kruhovom objazde zmer\u010dil podobize\u0148 ikony Dolomitov – Tre Cime (nem. Drei Zinnen). „Mamina, tam mus\u00edme \u00eds\u0165!“ Nie je probl\u00e9m, pomyslela som si, v\u0161ak z Valle Aurina (nem. Ahrntal) to m\u00e1me k za\u010diatku spoplatnen\u00e9ho \u00faseku len nie\u010do cez […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5876,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[23,56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5786","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-dolomity","category-vylety-s-detmi","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5786","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5786"}],"version-history":[{"count":22,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5786\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5900,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5786\/revisions\/5900"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/5876"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5786"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5786"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5786"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}