{"id":5108,"date":"2023-09-17T20:30:40","date_gmt":"2023-09-17T18:30:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=5108"},"modified":"2023-09-17T20:31:01","modified_gmt":"2023-09-17T18:31:01","slug":"ebenalp-alebo-ked-je-aj-vysoko-v-horach-nad-30c","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=5108","title":{"rendered":"Ebenalp alebo ke\u010f je aj vysoko v hor\u00e1ch nad 30\u00b0C"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ke\u010f sa povie \u0160vaj\u010diarsko, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z n\u00e1s si vybav\u00ed kr\u00e1sne modr\u00e9 jazer\u00e1 obklopen\u00e9 vysok\u00fdmi horsk\u00fdmi \u0161t\u00edtmi a Matternhorn. Poniektor\u00fdm myse\u013e zabl\u00fadi k talianskym hraniciam a kamenn\u00fdm dom\u010dekom dediniek v oblasti Ticino. A mnoh\u00ed si ur\u010dite spomen\u00fa na kaplnku v malej jaskyni \u010di chatu vtesnan\u00fa do skaln\u00e9ho previsu. Pr\u00e1ve tieto posledn\u00e9 sa mi do h\u013ead\u00e1\u010dika votreli v \u010dase, ke\u010f sme si zarezervovali apartm\u00e1n vo Vandans a Brande v rak\u00faskej spolkovej krajine Vorarlberg. Len p\u00e1r desiatok kilometrov od hran\u00edc so \u0160vaj\u010diarskom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vstup do jaskyne<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kaplnka Wildkirchli a chata Ascher sa nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa vo \u0161vaj\u010diarskom alpskom pohor\u00ed Alpstein, ktor\u00e9 je s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou Apenzellsk\u00fdch \u00c1lp. Prv\u00e9, \u010do v\u00e1m zrejme udrie pri n\u00e1v\u0161teve tohto klenotu do oka bude diametr\u00e1lne odli\u0161n\u00fd charakter horsk\u00e9ho mas\u00edvu (v porovnan\u00ed s okol\u00edm). Na rozdiel od centr\u00e1lnych \u00c1lp je Alpstein v\u00e1pencov\u00e9ho p\u00f4vodu a je pln\u00fd rozoklan\u00edn, pukl\u00edn, jask\u00fd\u0148, prepadl\u00edsk a bizarn\u00fdch skaln\u00fdch \u00fatvarov. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Uk\u00e1\u017eka miestneho obydlia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Do auta sad\u00e1me nie\u010do po \u0161iestej a k\u013eukatou horskou cestou mierime dole Brandentalom do Bludenzu a na dia\u013enicu. Nad Feldkirchom z nej zliezame a mot\u00e1me sa mal\u00fdmi rak\u00faskymi dedinkami a\u017e na hranice so susedn\u00fdm \u0160vaj\u010diarskom. Motanica pokra\u010duje a za Eichbergom naber\u00e1 gr\u00e1dy. Asfaltka sa nie len k\u013eukat\u00ed horsk\u00fdm priechodom, ale je tak \u00fazka, \u017ee sa modl\u00edm, aby sme nestretli autobus. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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M\u00ed\u0148ame nieko\u013eko gazdovstiev a znovu sa nap\u00e1jame na nie\u010do, \u010do by sa dalo nazva\u0165 hlavnou cestou. Pred mestom Apenzell odbo\u010dujeme do \u013eava a mierime k obciam Brulisau a Waseraun. Deti si vykra\u010duj\u00fa do \u0161koly a \u0161k\u00f4lky, \u013eudia do pr\u00e1ce a my turisti prekon\u00e1vame posledn\u00e9 kilometre k lanovke. Je pribli\u017ene pol \u00f4smej a parkovisko pri spodnej stanici je zatia\u013e takmer pr\u00e1zdne. Odstavujem auto a k\u00fdm sa Janino prez\u00fava a berie si veci, h\u013ead\u00e1m parkovac\u00ed automat. Vol\u00edm angli\u010dtinu a sna\u017e\u00edm sa pr\u00eds\u0165 na to, ako zaplati\u0165 parkovn\u00e9. Zad\u00e1vam pozn\u00e1vaciu zna\u010dku auta, vol\u00edm celodenn\u00fd l\u00edstok, h\u00e1d\u017eem p\u00e4\u0165frankovku a \u010dak\u00e1m, \u017ee mi vypadne nejak\u00fd l\u00edstok, ktor\u00fd nech\u00e1m za predn\u00fdm sklom. Z automatu v\u0161ak ni\u010d nelezie a ja som mierne zm\u00e4ten\u00e1. Turistka, ktor\u00e1 ide tie\u017e plati\u0165 parkovn\u00e9, ma uk\u013eud\u0148uje, \u017ee sta\u010dilo zada\u0165 pozn\u00e1vaciu zna\u010dku auta, syst\u00e9m je bezl\u00edstkov\u00fd. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V budove lanovky kupujem obojsmern\u00e9 l\u00edstky<\/a>, hoci predpoklad\u00e1m, \u017ee dole p\u00f4jdeme pe\u0161o. Jeden nikdy nevie a rozdiel v cene nie je zas tak obrovsk\u00fd. Turistick\u00fdch tr\u00e1s je v tejto oblasti ako h\u00fab po da\u017edi – prisp\u00f4sob\u00edm sa Janinovi a teplote, ktor\u00e1 n\u00edzka ur\u010dite nebude. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od vrchnej stanice lanovky ideme rovno k jaskyni. Na jej konci je mal\u00fd dreven\u00fd dom\u010dek, ako uk\u00e1\u017eka \u017eivota na\u0161ich predkov \u017eiviacich sa pastierstvom a hospod\u00e1ren\u00edm v horskom prostred\u00ed. Kostol\u00edk je obkolesen\u00fd dreven\u00fdm le\u0161en\u00edm a pr\u00e1ve prech\u00e1dza rekon\u0161trukciou, tak\u017ee z neho ve\u013ea nevidie\u0165, zato kaplnka nach\u00e1dzaj\u00faca sa priamo v skale n\u00e1m berie dych. Chv\u00ed\u013eu \u010falej kles\u00e1me po relat\u00edvne \u0161irokej \u0161trkovej cesti\u010dke istenej oce\u013eov\u00fdm plotom a padaj\u00fa n\u00e1m s\u00e1nky. Pred nami je chata Ascher<\/a>. Trochu som sa b\u00e1la, \u017ee bude bezn\u00e1dejne preplnen\u00e1, ale takto pred pol deviatou r\u00e1no tu okrem n\u00e1s je len obsluha, sliepka s koh\u00fatom a dvaja \u010fal\u0161\u00ed hostia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nepon\u00e1h\u013eame sa. Sad\u00e1me si na jednu z dreven\u00fdch lav\u00edc a objedn\u00e1vame k\u00e1vu a kolu. A ja nie\u010do, \u010do maj\u00fa v anglickom menu ozna\u010den\u00e9 ako „homemade cheese tart“. Netu\u0161\u00edm, \u010do mi vo fin\u00e1le dones\u00fa, ale u\u017e som si zvykla na lok\u00e1lne \u0161pecialitky a prekvapenia. O nieko\u013eko min\u00fat predo m\u0148a \u010da\u0161n\u00edk kladie mal\u00fd tanier so \u0161tvrtinou nie\u010doho, \u010do mi pripom\u00edna na\u0161u omeletu. Sta\u010d\u00ed jedin\u00fd v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1dych a je mi jasn\u00e9, \u017ee \u00fa\u017easne smrad\u013eav\u00fdm syrom Apenzeller ne\u0161etrili. D\u00e1vam do \u00fast prv\u00e9 s\u00fasto a zm\u00f4\u017eem sa len na dlh\u00e9 „hmmmmmmmm“. V okamihu mi prest\u00e1va vadi\u0165 mal\u00e1 porcia v cene 12.9 CHF. Ke\u010f som asi v polovici, zva\u017eujem, \u017ee si objedn\u00e1m e\u0161te jeden k\u00fasok. Ku koncu men\u00edm n\u00e1zor. Syrom ne\u0161etrili, tak\u017ee aj t\u00e1 \u0161tvr\u0165ka je nakoniec viac ne\u017e dostato\u010dne v\u00fddatn\u00fdm jedlom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

O deviatej, potiac sa pri teplote okolo 30\u00b0C, chatu op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame s pl\u00e1nom vr\u00e1ti\u0165 sa k nej a v kiosku si k\u00fapi\u0165 Apenzeller. Ukazujem Janinovi mapu a p\u00fdtam sa, kam by chcel \u00eds\u0165 s t\u00fdm, \u017ee ur\u010dite nejdeme hne\u010f dole k jazeru. Vol\u00edme teda zlat\u00fd stredn\u00fd variant, na za\u010diatku ktor\u00e9ho n\u00e1s v\u00edta upozornenie, aby si rodi\u010dia deti uviazali na vodiaci postroj. A inform\u00e1cia, \u017ee postroje s\u00fa na pren\u00e1jom na chate. Obaja h\u013ead\u00edme na chodn\u00edk pred nami a usmievame sa. Po Garnitzenklamm, G\u00b4Hackte \u010di in\u00fdch na\u0161ich „chu\u0165ovk\u00e1ch“ posledn\u00fdch rokov o postroji ani neuva\u017eujeme. Nehovoriac o tom, \u017ee v jeho veku a s jeho aktu\u00e1lnou v\u00e1hou by postroj u\u017e bezpe\u010dn\u00fd ani nebol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdm svahom mierne st\u00fapame a frfleme na pripekaj\u00face slnie\u010dko. Nikde ani obl\u00e1\u010dika. Ke\u010f sa n\u00e1m dar\u00ed schova\u0165 aspo\u0148 na chv\u00ed\u013eu v lese, ideme z nohy na nohu a u\u017e\u00edvame si v\u00edtan\u00fd tie\u0148. Chcem \u00eds\u0165 do sedla Sch\u00e4ffler (1925 m), ale tento n\u00e1pad je jednohlasne zamietnut\u00fd. „Mamina, ve\u010f je stra\u0161ne teplo.“ S\u00fahlas\u00edm s kamz\u00edkom a tak pokra\u010dujeme smerom k Altenalp (1595 m). Chodn\u00edk sa vinie tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdm \u00fabo\u010d\u00edm, zr\u00e1z nad nami, zr\u00e1z pod nami a v protismere za\u010d\u00edname stret\u00e1va\u0165 prv\u00fdch turistov. Bez probl\u00e9mov sa vyh\u00fdbame, zdvorilostn\u00e9 fr\u00e1zy v angli\u010dtine skracujeme na minimum a pokra\u010dujeme \u010falej. Na doh\u013ead \u00fadolia, v ktor\u00fdch s\u00fa chaty Mesmer (1613 m) a Meglisalp (1517 m). Nad nimi sa ako zdvihnut\u00fd prst t\u00fd\u010di ve\u017ea zdobiaca vrchol S\u00e4ntis (2502 m). V k\u00fatiku du\u0161e d\u00fafam, \u017ee sa mi podar\u00ed m\u00f4jho spolo\u010dn\u00edka ukeca\u0165 aspo\u0148 na Mesmer, no nevklad\u00e1m do toho ve\u013ek\u00e9 n\u00e1deje. Je fakt hor\u00faco a cel\u00e1 trasa je na slnku. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V mali\u010dkom hospod\u00e1rstve Altenalp si d\u00e1vame misky kozieho mlieka a koch\u00e1me sa pr\u00edrodou okolo seba. V\u00f4kol \u0161antia dve mal\u00e9 deti a to tretie sa \u0161tvorno\u017eky sna\u017e\u00ed batoli\u0165 priestorom, ktor\u00fdm sa dok\u00e1\u017ee dosta\u0165. Je o\u010dividn\u00e9, \u017ee toto miesto je \u017eivobyt\u00edm troch gener\u00e1ci\u00ed \u0160vaj\u010diarov. Turisti prich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa a odch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa a my st\u00e1le sed\u00edme a nevieme sa presta\u0165 kocha\u0165 tou n\u00e1dherou okolo n\u00e1s. Plat\u00edm za mlieko a nech\u00e1vam definit\u00edvne rozhodnutie kadia\u013e \u00eds\u0165 na Jankovi. Nebudem ho v tom pekl\u00ed\u010dku n\u00fati\u0165 pokra\u010dova\u0165 \u010falej, ak nebude chcie\u0165. U\u017e d\u00e1vno si vyzliekol tri\u010dko a je do pol p\u00e1sa nah\u00fd. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ideme priamo dole. Na kolen\u00e1 d\u00e1vam ort\u00e9zy a nasledujem ho. To, \u010do na mape vyzer\u00e1 ako riadna strmina, je spo\u010diatku pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 klesanie hlinen\u00fdm chodn\u00edkom uprostred pasienkov. Sranda kon\u010d\u00ed, ke\u010f m\u00e1me na doh\u013ead les. K\u00fasok pred lesom, v ktorom sa hlina men\u00ed na skalky a kamene, je ostnat\u00fd dr\u00f4t a kovov\u00e1 br\u00e1nka. Aby sa dobytok nedostal, kam nem\u00e1. Dosta\u0165 sa \u010falej ale nevieme ani my – br\u00e1nka sa ned\u00e1 otvori\u0165, oto\u010di\u0165, ni\u010d. Jedine preliez\u0165. U\u017e je to nejak\u00fd ten rok, \u010do som naposledy preliezala ploty, ale holt nem\u00e1m in\u00fa mo\u017enos\u0165. V protismere ide star\u0161\u00ed man\u017eelsk\u00fd p\u00e1r a t\u00ed tie\u017e br\u00e1nku preliezaj\u00fa. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 n\u00e1s p\u00e1n upozor\u0148uje, \u017ee klesanie nie je ve\u013emi bezpe\u010dn\u00e9. \u010eakujem mu a pokra\u010dujeme. Medzi stromami je teplota znesite\u013enej\u0161ia. To je z\u00e1rove\u0148 jedin\u00e9, \u010do je v tomto ter\u00e9ne znesite\u013en\u00e9. Kles\u00e1me prudko dole po kame\u0148och, skalk\u00e1ch a skal\u00e1ch, viacer\u00e9 \u00faseky s\u00fa tu isten\u00e9 oce\u013eov\u00fdm lanom. Nie \u017ee by bol ter\u00e9n skuto\u010dne nebezpe\u010dn\u00fd, je to sk\u00f4r tak\u00e1 barli\u010dka pre menej zdatn\u00fdch n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkov. Kolen\u00e1 sa tv\u00e1ria, \u017ee si o mne myslia svoje, ale nebolia. Len mus\u00edm d\u00e1va\u0165 pozor kam a ako na\u0161\u013eapujem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po hodine sme dole a obhliadame sa okolo seba, kde by sme si mohli da\u0165 tepl\u00fd obed. Dreven\u00edc je v \u00fadol\u00ed roztr\u00fasen\u00fdch ne\u00farekom, ale v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z nich sl\u00fa\u017ei len miestnym, ktor\u00ed tu chovaj\u00fa kravy. V jednej z nich si kupujeme syr vyroben\u00fd z ich mlieka. Nie je to s\u00edce Apenzeller, ale je tak spr\u00e1vne smrad\u013eav\u00fd a chutn\u00fd. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V jazere sa k\u00fape mno\u017estvo \u013eud\u00ed a e\u0161te v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed po\u010det okolo jazera piknikuje. Obch\u00e1dzame ich a mierime do re\u0161tiky Forelle na obed. Tak ako som si pochutila na chate Ascher, tak tu za\u017e\u00edvame presn\u00fd opak. Hranolky sa nedaj\u00fa jes\u0165 a ryba je rozkr\u00e1jan\u00e1 do nie\u010doho, \u010do pripom\u00edna nugetky, obalen\u00e1 v nechutnom cest\u00ed\u010dku a vypra\u017een\u00e1. Jan\u00edk cest\u00ed\u010dko ober\u00e1 a vyjed\u00e1 len pstruha lososov\u00e9ho. Miesto hranoliek ho zajed\u00e1 chlebom, ktor\u00fd som ja dostala ku svojmu mal\u00e9mu syrovo-\u0161unkov\u00e9mu tanieru. Za tento skvost spolu s nealko pivom a jednou kolou nech\u00e1vam \u010da\u0161n\u00ed\u010dke presne 54,- CHF. Pomer cena v\u00fdkon \u017ealostn\u00fd, ale o tom, \u017ee \u0160vaj\u010diarsko je drah\u00e9, sme vedeli. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nazad k parkovisku vedie \u0161irok\u00e1 asfaltov\u00e1 cesta. A tak, ako som si pri jazere dala ort\u00e9zy dole, si ich znovu d\u00e1vam na kolen\u00e1, preto\u017ee m\u00e1 ve\u013emi nepr\u00edjemn\u00fd sklon. Pribli\u017ene po hodine sme autu na doh\u013ead. Pri stanici lanovky si kupujeme nanuky a ja neodol\u00e1m \u010fal\u0161iemu syru. Medzi parkoviskom a stanicou lanovky je potok, popri ktorom s\u00fa lavi\u010dky. Na jednu z nich si sad\u00e1me, vyz\u00favme tenisky a pono\u017eky a s nanukmi v ruke vch\u00e1dzame do vody. Je studen\u00e1, a\u017e to po chv\u00edli doslova bol\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ke\u010f sa povie \u0160vaj\u010diarsko, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z n\u00e1s si vybav\u00ed kr\u00e1sne modr\u00e9 jazer\u00e1 obklopen\u00e9 vysok\u00fdmi horsk\u00fdmi \u0161t\u00edtmi a Matternhorn. Poniektor\u00fdm myse\u013e zabl\u00fadi k talianskym hraniciam a kamenn\u00fdm dom\u010dekom dediniek v oblasti Ticino. A mnoh\u00ed si ur\u010dite spomen\u00fa na kaplnku v malej jaskyni \u010di chatu vtesnan\u00fa do skaln\u00e9ho previsu. Pr\u00e1ve tieto posledn\u00e9 sa mi do h\u013ead\u00e1\u010dika votreli […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5203,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[57,56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5108","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-svajciarsko","category-vylety-s-detmi","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5108","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5108"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5108\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5218,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5108\/revisions\/5218"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/5203"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5108"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5108"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5108"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}