{"id":5023,"date":"2023-08-31T12:41:59","date_gmt":"2023-08-31T10:41:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=5023"},"modified":"2023-09-04T13:02:17","modified_gmt":"2023-09-04T11:02:17","slug":"v-znameni-srdca-lunersee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=5023","title":{"rendered":"V znamen\u00ed srdca – L\u00fcnersee"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ke\u010f som pl\u00e1novala dovolenku a t\u00fary, ktor\u00e9 by sme mohli absolvova\u0165 v\u0161etci traja, do oka mi padlo jazero ozna\u010dovan\u00e9 ako perla \u00c1lp. S podobn\u00fdm pr\u00edvlastkom som sa u\u017e stretla, a to v pr\u00edpade Lago di Braies<\/a> v talianskych Dolomitoch, preto som bola naozaj zvedav\u00e1, \u010di aj tu poves\u0165 dostoj\u00ed realite. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jedno z roz\u013eahl\u00fdch parkov\u00edsk pri stanici lanovky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fd t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 dovolenky tr\u00e1vime v dedinke Brand vo vrchnej \u010dasti \u00fadolia Brandental, a tak v nede\u013eu nev\u00e1hame ani sekundu, po ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch sad\u00e1me do auta a zdol\u00e1vame nieko\u013eko kilometrov dlh\u00fa a \u00fazku pr\u00edjazdov\u00fa cestu k spodnej stanici lanovky. Je len nie\u010do po deviatej, lanovka prem\u00e1va od \u00f4smej, a najbli\u017e\u0161ie parkovisko je bezn\u00e1dejne pln\u00e9. Ot\u00e1\u010dam to a mierim k \u010fal\u0161iemu, kde sa mi bez probl\u00e9mov dar\u00ed n\u00e1js\u0165 parkovacie miesto. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od p\u00e1na za okienkom si p\u00fdtam spiato\u010dn\u00fd l\u00edstok pre die\u0165a a dospel\u00e9ho a pre istotu sa ho p\u00fdtam, \u010di je parkovisko spoplatnen\u00e9 alebo nie (l\u00edstky sa daj\u00fa k\u00fapi\u0165 aj online<\/a> a komu sa nechce plaho\u010di\u0165 \u00fazkou asfaltkou v miestami exponovanom ter\u00e9ne, m\u00f4\u017ee si zak\u00fapi\u0165 tzv. „green ticket“ v cene ktor\u00e9ho je aj preprava verejnou dopravou). H\u013ead\u00ed na m\u0148a trochu prekvapene, ale ke\u010f mi pod\u00e1va l\u00edstky, oznamuje mi, \u017ee parkovn\u00e9 plati\u0165 netreba. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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K\u00fdm \u010dak\u00e1me na gondolu, dohadujeme sa kam vlastne p\u00f4jdeme a ktorou trasou. Ja by som rada vyliezla aspo\u0148 ku Totalph\u00fctte (2385 m) a keby sa dalo, pokra\u010dovala by som na hrani\u010dn\u00fd vrchol Schesaplana (2966 m). Janino s\u00fahlas\u00ed s chatou, ale my\u0161lienka, \u017ee by mal pokra\u010dova\u0165 \u010fal\u0161ie dve hodiny a vy\u0161tvera\u0165 sa \u010fal\u0161\u00edch \u0161es\u0165sto v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov v \u0148om nad\u0161enie nepreb\u00fadza. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Prv\u00fd rann\u00fd poh\u013ead na jazero n\u00e1m trochu hat\u00ed st\u00e1nok so suven\u00edrmi. A nebol by to Janino, keby k nemu ne\u0165ahal priamu \u010diaru. Vzadu na polici vid\u00ed vydru a hne\u010f ju odo m\u0148a \u017eobre. St\u00e1nok je na \u0161\u0165astie e\u0161te zatvoren\u00fd, tak\u017ee m\u00e1m \u010das na vyjedn\u00e1vanie a kladenie podmienok. \u017de to nevyu\u017eijem na to, aby som ho vytiahla na Schesaplanu je mi jasn\u00e9 u\u017e pri Douglas h\u00fctte. Je len pol desiatej a je hor\u00faco. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od st\u00e1nku mierime vpravo a popod Seekopf (2698 m) sa pribli\u017eujeme k prvej odbo\u010dke na chatu. Prv\u00fd \u00fasek st\u00fapa tiahlo a mierne, strmina za\u010d\u00edna a\u017e ke\u010f sa napoj\u00ed na cesti\u010dku, ved\u00facu od jazera cel\u00fd \u010das popod n\u00e1kladn\u00fa lanovku. P\u00f4vodne sme chceli \u00eds\u0165 \u010falej a na chatu sa dosta\u0165 obk\u013eukou a miernej\u0161\u00edm st\u00fapan\u00edm, ale hovor\u00edm si ka\u0161\u013ea\u0165 na to. Nie sme \u017eiadne padavky, aby sme nezdolali nejak\u00fdch \u0161tyristo v\u00fd\u0161ka\u010dov v prud\u0161\u00edch serpent\u00ednach. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chodn\u00edk je kamenit\u00fd a\u017e skalnat\u00fd, a z\u00e1rove\u0148 dostato\u010dne \u0161irok\u00fd na to, aby sme sa dok\u00e1zali bezpe\u010dne vyh\u00fdba\u0165 turistom id\u00facim dolu. A dvom mal\u00fdm chlapcom, ktor\u00ed n\u00e1m a\u017e po chatu robia spolo\u010dnos\u0165 od za\u010diatku prudk\u00e9ho st\u00fapania. Mlad\u0161\u00ed m\u00f4\u017ee ma\u0165 tri, star\u0161\u00ed maxim\u00e1lne \u0161es\u0165 a k\u00fdm sa my pot\u00edme a lopot\u00edme, oni doslovne behaj\u00fa hore dole po chodn\u00edku a pre z\u00e1bavu si cestu skracuj\u00fa po suti a tr\u00e1ve mimo turistick\u00e9 trasy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

S kamz\u00edkom si v teple rob\u00edme \u010dast\u00e9 prest\u00e1vky, posed\u00e1vame na skal\u00e1ch, pop\u00edjame izonotick\u00fa \u017ebrndu a obdivujeme okolie. Po n\u00e1v\u0161teve tektonickej oblasti Sardona a pizolsk\u00fdch jazier<\/a> som sa tro\u0161ku ob\u00e1vala, \u017ee budeme ma\u0165 probl\u00e9m n\u00e1js\u0165 nie\u010do aspo\u0148 pribli\u017ene rovnako n\u00e1dhern\u00e9, ale na tomto mieste vid\u00edm, \u017ee moje obavy boli \u00faplne zbyto\u010dn\u00e9. Na jazero sa jednoducho neviem vynad\u00edva\u0165. Fascinuj\u00fa ma jeho tr\u00e1vnat\u00e9 brehy, ktor\u00e9 plynule na z\u00e1padnej strane prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa do skaln\u00fdch \u00fabo\u010d\u00ed a kopcov. Fascinuje ma farba vody. Fascinuje ma sp\u00f4sob, ak\u00fdm sa mal\u00fd polostrov\u010dek vn\u00e1ra do vodnej hladiny a dod\u00e1va tak jazeru tvar srdca. A to e\u0161te nie sme hore. E\u0161te nie sme pri zostupovej ceste popod sedlo Gamsgluggen (2833 m).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Totalpsee<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kone\u010dne sme pri chate. Tri\u010dko bezn\u00e1dejne prepoten\u00e9, teplota aj v tejto nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke ne\u00faprosn\u00e1, slnie\u010dko pripek\u00e1. V\u0161etky miesta v tieni s\u00fa na terase obsaden\u00e9. Nevad\u00ed. Stol\u00edk pri z\u00e1bradl\u00ed nad Totalpsee n\u00e1m plne vyhovuje. Objedn\u00e1vam nemenovan\u00fd miestny sladk\u00fd n\u00e1poj, ktor\u00fd tu pred\u00e1vaj\u00fa ako n\u00e1hradu in\u00e9ho nemenovan\u00e9ho medzin\u00e1rodne zn\u00e1meho kofe\u00ednov\u00e9ho n\u00e1poja a sebe aj polievku. Janino jes\u0165 odmieta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Rovnako odmieta prejs\u0165 sa so mnou po vrstevnici do sedla Gamsgluggen na hranici so \u0160vaj\u010diarskom. V\u010faka nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke, v ktorej je postaven\u00e1 chata, vid\u00edm \u010faleko za sedlo a nenamietam vo\u010di jeho n\u00e1vrhu, aby sme \u0161li rovno zostupovou cestou nazad k jazeru. Vidite\u013enos\u0165 je v t\u00fdchto hor\u00fa\u010dav\u00e1ch aj tak mizern\u00e1. Plat\u00edm \u00fatratu, na toalete si vyzliekam tri\u010dko a obliekam tielko, \u010dak\u00e1m na kamz\u00edka a chatu nech\u00e1vame za sebou. Skaly a su\u0165 onedlho strieda kr\u00e1sne zelen\u00e1 tr\u00e1va malej planiny obkolesenej hrebe\u0148om R\u00e4tikonu medzi vrcholmi Totalk\u04e7pfe (2556 m) a Kanzelk\u04e7pfe (2437 m). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Krok za krokom sa n\u00e1m postupne odha\u013euje poh\u013ead na to, \u010do je pod nami. Jazero, ktor\u00e9 tvarom pripom\u00edna srdce. L\u00fcnersee v celej svojej n\u00e1dhere a z uhla, kv\u00f4li ktor\u00e9mu bez debaty stoj\u00ed za to prekona\u0165 t\u00fdch p\u00e1r stoviek v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov. Fot\u00edme sa, obdivujeme, koch\u00e1me sa. A nepon\u00e1h\u013eame sa. Na chv\u00ed\u013eu vch\u00e1dzame medzi skaly a m\u00ed\u0148ame jeden z prame\u0148ov nap\u00e1jaj\u00facich L\u00fcnersee. Sad\u00e1m si na obl\u00fa skalu a nech\u00e1vam Jan\u00edka „d\u017eaba\u0165“ sa vo vode. Do odchodu poslednej lanovky m\u00e1me more \u010dasu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od prame\u0148a za\u010d\u00edna by\u0165 ter\u00e9n trochu nepr\u00edjemn\u00fd. Klesanie je st\u00e1le mierne, ale chodn\u00edk je su\u0165ov\u00fd a \u00fazky. \u0160trk, su\u0165 a skalky na n\u00e1s \u010d\u00edhaj\u00fa aj v z\u00e1vere\u010dn\u00fdch serpent\u00ednach, ktor\u00e9 kon\u010dia na chodn\u00edku okolo jazera. Odop\u00ednam ort\u00e9zy, bal\u00edm ich prepoten\u00e9 do batoha a som rada, \u017ee t\u00fato \u010das\u0165 m\u00e1me definit\u00edvne za sebou. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Za chatou L\u00fcnerseealpe (2000 m) si rob\u00edme \u010fal\u0161iu v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu prest\u00e1vku. Je tu toti\u017e potok (zase). Jasn\u00e1 modr\u00e1 obloha a vysok\u00e1 teplota n\u00e1s motivuj\u00fa k tomu, aby sme si obaja vyzuli top\u00e1nky a ovla\u017eili nohy v studenej vode. Po chv\u00edli sa znovu ob\u00favam a sad\u00e1m si na ne\u010falek\u00fa lavi\u010dku. K\u00fdm ja sa koch\u00e1m pr\u00edrodn\u00fdmi kr\u00e1sami, Jan\u00edk si u\u017e\u00edva zur\u010diacu vodu v potoku. Ani neviem ako a pol hodina je fu\u010d. Za\u010d\u00ednam by\u0165 hladn\u00e1 a kamz\u00edk cel\u00fd de\u0148 poriadne nejedol. D\u00e1vam mu posledn\u00fdch p\u00e4\u0165 min\u00fat a pokra\u010dujeme v n\u00e1vrate k lanovke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Pri tej sme nakoniec okolo pol \u0161tvrtej. St\u00e1nok so suven\u00edrmi je otvoren\u00fd. Kupujeme si nanuky a „vydvu“. T\u00fa v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu. Okolie chaty a lanovky sa naplnilo turistami. Nanuky v gondole jes\u0165 nem\u00f4\u017eeme, tak\u017ee si sad\u00e1me na vo\u013en\u00fa skalu nad jazerom a e\u0161te sa posledn\u00fdch p\u00e1r min\u00fat koch\u00e1me v\u00fdh\u013eadmi. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K jazeru si to po\u010das tohto t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148a namierime e\u0161te raz. Spolu s tat\u00edkom. Dar\u00ed sa n\u00e1m pr\u00eds\u0165 o hodinu sk\u00f4r a hore n\u00e1s v\u00edta nepr\u00edjemne ostr\u00fd a studen\u00fd vietor, ktor\u00fdm studen\u00fd vzduch z doliny st\u00fapa hore. Bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch turistick\u00fdch cie\u013eov si d\u00e1vame len okruh okolo jazera s dlh\u0161\u00edm zastaven\u00edm na chate L\u00fcnerseealpe, kde si vychutn\u00e1vam nalo\u017een\u00fd koz\u00ed syr od miestneho farm\u00e1ra z ved\u013eaj\u0161ej doliny. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ak budete v t\u00fdchto kon\u010din\u00e1ch, L\u00fcnersee je nie\u010do, \u010do mus\u00edte vidie\u0165. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ke\u010f som pl\u00e1novala dovolenku a t\u00fary, ktor\u00e9 by sme mohli absolvova\u0165 v\u0161etci traja, do oka mi padlo jazero ozna\u010dovan\u00e9 ako perla \u00c1lp. S podobn\u00fdm pr\u00edvlastkom som sa u\u017e stretla, a to v pr\u00edpade Lago di Braies v talianskych Dolomitoch, preto som bola naozaj zvedav\u00e1, \u010di aj tu poves\u0165 dostoj\u00ed realite. Druh\u00fd t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 dovolenky tr\u00e1vime v […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4990,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[58,56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5023","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-vorarlberg","category-vylety-s-detmi","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5023","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5023"}],"version-history":[{"count":19,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5023\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5049,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5023\/revisions\/5049"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4990"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5023"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5023"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5023"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}