{"id":4828,"date":"2023-07-27T20:56:28","date_gmt":"2023-07-27T18:56:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4828"},"modified":"2023-08-30T19:30:42","modified_gmt":"2023-08-30T17:30:42","slug":"donnersbachwand-gro%ce%b2er-barneck-2071-m","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4828","title":{"rendered":"Donnersbachwand &#8211; Gro\u03b2er B\u00e4rneck (2071 m)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Predpove\u010f s\u013eubuje na nede\u013eu ove\u013ea lep\u0161ie po\u010dasie ako bolo to, ktor\u00e9 n\u00e1s sprev\u00e1dzalo po\u010das v\u00fdletu na <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4802\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4802\" target=\"_blank\">Plannereck (2003 m)<\/a> de\u0148 pred t\u00fdm. Pl\u00e1n m\u00e1m viac menej ist\u00fd, v\u0161etko z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed len na tom, \u010di sa predpovedn\u00e9 modely trafia alebo nie. A ja d\u00fafam, \u017ee sa trafia, lebo \u0161tyri hodiny cesty kv\u00f4li malej prech\u00e1dzke nad hotelom by na m\u0148a a v\u00edkend str\u00e1ven\u00fd v Alp\u00e1ch bola ve\u013emi zl\u00e1 \u0161tatistika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8709-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4843\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8709-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8709-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8709-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8709-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8709-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00e1no sa bud\u00edm do slne\u010dn\u00e9ho po\u010dasia, obloha je n\u00e1dherne az\u00farov\u00e1 a bez jedin\u00e9ho obl\u00e1\u010dika. K\u00fdm sa preber\u00e1 kamz\u00edk, bal\u00edm veci tak, aby n\u00e1m sta\u010dil len jeho v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed batoh. V\u0161etko ostatn\u00e9 sa sna\u017e\u00edm naprata\u0165 do toho m\u00f4jho a zvy\u0161ky do Janinovho men\u0161ieho ruksaku. Po ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch h\u00e1d\u017eeme v\u0161etko, \u010do dnes nebudeme potrebova\u0165, do kufra a batoh s vodou a nejak\u00fdm t\u00fdm oble\u010den\u00edm d\u00e1vam na zadn\u00e9 sedadlo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8730-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4844\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8730-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8730-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8730-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8730-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8730-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Z Planneralm pomaly sch\u00e1dzame rozbitou horskou cestou do dedinky Donnersbach, v ktorej odbo\u010dujem prudko do \u013eava. V obk\u013e\u00fa\u010den\u00ed h\u00f4r mierime priamo do \u010fal\u0161ieho ly\u017eiarskeho strediska, ktor\u00e9 vyu\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa preva\u017ene miestni obyvatelia &#8211; do Donnersbachwandu. Na rozdiel od Planneralm tu v\u0161ak prem\u00e1va jedna lanovka aj v lete (nie \u017ee by v Planneralm bola potrebn\u00e1). Kupujeme l\u00edstky na <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.riesneralm.at\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.riesneralm.at\/\" target=\"_blank\">Riesnerbahn<\/a>, pracovn\u00edk lanovky n\u00e1m pribrzd\u00ed, aby sme sa mohli posadi\u0165, a u\u017e sa r\u00fdchlos\u0165ou slima\u010dieho blesku \u0161inieme do medzistanice. Z nej vedie v\u013eavo \u00fazky turistick\u00fd chodn\u00edk \u00fabo\u010d\u00edm Riesnerkrispen (1922 m) a\u017e ku zatvorenej chate Finsterkaralm (1566 m).  Cesti\u010dka je nie len \u00fazka, ale na mnoh\u00fdch miestach aj podmo\u010den\u00e1, tak\u017ee mus\u00edme d\u00e1va\u0165 pozor, kam \u0161liapeme. Obaja s\u00edce m\u00e1me dobr\u00e9 top\u00e1nky, no ak &#8222;d\u017eabneme&#8220; do blata po \u010dlenky, hust\u00e1 hned\u00e1 tekutina n\u00e1m do vn\u00fatra nate\u010die zvrchu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8749-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4845\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8749-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8749-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8749-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8749-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8749-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch min\u00fatach sa dost\u00e1vame z \u010du\u010doriedkoviska a lesa na pasienok. Kravy okolo n\u00e1s spokojne oddychuj\u00fa alebo trhaj\u00fa tr\u00e1vu a byliny a pre\u017e\u00favaj\u00fa v pomalom tempe. Janino ma pevne dr\u017e\u00ed za ruku. Po minuloro\u010dnom z\u00e1\u017eitku po\u010das zostupu z <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=2273\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=2273\" target=\"_blank\">Wildfeldu<\/a> m\u00e1 pred t\u00fdmito zvieratami u\u017e nie re\u0161pekt, ale strach. Nie sme tu sami, pred nami aj za nami s\u00fa \u010fal\u0161\u00ed turisti vr\u00e1tane rodiny s nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi de\u0165mi. Ak by aj kravy chceli sk\u00fama\u0165, kto to okolo nich ide, je n\u00e1s prive\u013ea a tak n\u00e1s viac menej ignoruj\u00fa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8758-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4846\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8758-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8758-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8758-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8758-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8758-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mal\u00e1 dreven\u00e1 chatka Finsterkaralm je u\u010dupen\u00e1 na okraji lesa, ktor\u00fdm za\u010d\u00edname prudko nabera\u0165 nadmorsk\u00fa v\u00fd\u0161ku. Zvy\u0161uje sa aj teplota vzduchu. St\u00fapanie spolu s hor\u00fa\u010davou a p\u00e1liacim slnkom pre m\u0148a nie je najpr\u00edjemnej\u0161ia kombin\u00e1cia. Na \u0161\u0165astie stromy rast\u00fa dos\u0165 na husto, tak\u017ee sme v tieni, a ke\u010f z neho vych\u00e1dzame na n\u00e1dhern\u00fa (a podmo\u010den\u00fa) lesn\u00fa \u010distinu, st\u00fapanie sa zmier\u0148uje. Hops\u00e1me z kame\u0148a na kame\u0148 ako tie kamz\u00edky a kozoro\u017ece, ktor\u00e9 ob\u010das v Alp\u00e1ch stret\u00e1vame, aby sme sa nenamo\u010dili. V niektor\u00fdch \u00fasekoch ved\u00fa trasou mal\u00e9 pot\u00f4\u010diky. Ne\u010dudo, v sobotu tu vytrvalo pr\u0161alo takmer cel\u00fd de\u0148 (a mne sa zase raz potvrdilo, \u017ee ob\u010das m\u00e1 v hor\u00e1ch ka\u017ed\u00e1 dolina vlastn\u00e9 po\u010dasie, preto\u017ee k\u00fdm v Planneralm bolo sucho, z hrebe\u0148a od Plannerecku bolo u\u017e o jeden\u00e1stej vidie\u0165, \u017ee toto \u00fazemie je bi\u010dovan\u00e9 da\u017e\u010fom).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8762-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4847\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8762-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8762-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8762-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8762-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8762-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jazero Finsterkarsee (1793 m) je mimo chodn\u00edk ved\u00faci do sedla. Janino ignoruje zna\u010denie a mieri dole k vode. Chv\u00ed\u013ea pauzy neza\u0161kod\u00ed, a tak ho bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch protestov a pripomienok nasledujem. Finsterkarsee je nap\u00e1jan\u00e9 z viacer\u00fdch horsk\u00fdch pot\u00f4\u010dikov. Od detstva som zvyknut\u00e1 pi\u0165 vodu z tak\u00fdchto bystr\u00edn. Poriadne sa napijem, aby som vypr\u00e1zdnila v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu termosku, v ktorej m\u00e1me izotonick\u00fd n\u00e1poj. K\u00fdm si kamz\u00edk rob\u00ed v pot\u00f4\u010diku priehradky, naber\u00e1m do sedemdecky studen\u00fa horsk\u00fa vodu, zatv\u00e1ram ju a vraciam sa na v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu skalu, pri ktorej som si zlo\u017eila veci. V druhej termoske je zvy\u0161ok izotonick\u00e9ho n\u00e1poja, ktor\u00fd \u0161etr\u00edm hlavne pre krpca.Po p\u00e1r min\u00fatach je moje prepoten\u00e9 tri\u010dko \u00faplne such\u00e9. Ramenn\u00e9 popruhy batoha tie\u017e. Vel\u00edm odchod, \u010dakaj\u00fa n\u00e1s e\u0161te pribli\u017ene tri hodiny a \u010das sa ch\u00fdli k obedu. Nechcem pr\u00eds\u0165 do Bratislavy o polnoci. Janino chv\u00ed\u013eu protestuje, ale prid\u00e1va sa ku mne a spolo\u010dne sa vraciame na turistick\u00fd chodn\u00edk. Ten ide chv\u00ed\u013eu viac menej rovinkou a miernym st\u00fapan\u00edm, ale po p\u00e1r min\u00fatach je z neho nepr\u00edjemn\u00fd strm\u00e1k. Predierame sa kr\u00edkmi a \u0161kriabeme sa po skal\u00e1ch, a to v\u0161etko na vlhkej hline, ktor\u00e1 mi viac razy &#8222;utek\u00e1&#8220; pod nohami. Ideme pomaly a opatrne. Sch\u00e1dza\u0165 dole by som t\u00fdmto \u00fasekom asi nechcela. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8763-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4848\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8763-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8763-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8763-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8763-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8763-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8222;Mamina, pre\u010do ide\u0161 tak pomaly?&#8220; S ironick\u00fdm \u00fasmevom na per\u00e1ch sa pozriem nad seba. Zelen\u00e9 tepl\u00e1ky mi s\u00edce ukazuj\u00fa zadok, tri\u010dko je ale oto\u010den\u00e9 smerom ku mne a ja vid\u00edm, \u017ee m\u00f4j syn mysl\u00ed svoju ot\u00e1zku napoly v\u00e1\u017ene, napoly \u017eartom. A tak mu d\u00e1vam batoh. Mne sa ide \u013eah\u0161ie, on sa ma po troch min\u00fatach p\u00fdta, ako dlho ho mus\u00ed nies\u0165. &#8222;Aspo\u0148 do sedla,&#8220; odpoved\u00e1m a plaho\u010d\u00edm sa za n\u00edm. Ke\u010f u\u017e m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee n\u00e1m nech\u00fdba ve\u013ea k tomu, aby sme liezli kolmo hore po \u0161tyroch, beriem si batoh sp\u00e4\u0165. (A Janino do konca t\u00fary u\u017e ani raz neutr\u00fasi pozn\u00e1mku na margo m\u00f4jho tempa.) Kone\u010dne sme v sedle. Sad\u00e1me si do tr\u00e1vy a d\u00e1vame si pauzu. Vetr\u00edk pr\u00edjemne pofukuje a su\u0161\u00ed moje znovu prepoten\u00e9 tenk\u00e9  tri\u010dko. Vy\u0165ahujem makov\u00e9 bratislavsk\u00e9 ro\u017eky a spolo\u010dne sa posil\u0148ujeme pred prechodom \u010dasti hrebe\u0148a. Pri poh\u013eade na strm\u00fd tr\u00e1vnat\u00fd zr\u00e1z kon\u010diaci nieko\u013eko stoviek v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov pod nami si \u017eel\u00e1m ma\u0165 t\u00fato \u010das\u0165 t\u00fary \u010do najr\u00fdchlej\u0161ie za sebou. Nie \u017ee by som sa b\u00e1la v\u00fd\u0161ok, to by chodenie do tak\u00fdchto ter\u00e9nov bolo samovra\u017edou. Ale m\u00e1m re\u0161pekt. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8767-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4849\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8767-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8767-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8767-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8767-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8767-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Uzu\u010dk\u00fd chodn\u00ed\u010dek vin\u00faci sa tr\u00e1vou popod Finsterkarspitz (2022 m) n\u00e1s n\u00fati \u00eds\u0165 pomaly a obozretne. Sta\u010d\u00ed jeden chybn\u00fd krok a let\u00edme &#8211; a zastav\u00ed n\u00e1s mo\u017eno a\u017e stretnutie s civiliz\u00e1ciou v doline. Pribli\u017ene v strede prechodu hrebe\u0148om ku Gro\u03b2er B\u00e4rneck (2071 m) sa chodn\u00edk prehupuje na opa\u010dn\u00fa stranu &#8211; nad \u010fal\u0161iu mapou nepomenovan\u00fa \u010distinu. Pred z\u00e1vere\u010dn\u00fdm st\u00fapan\u00edm k vrcholov\u00e9mu kr\u00ed\u017eu si znovu sad\u00e1me do tr\u00e1vy a chv\u00ed\u013eu sa rozhliadame okolo seba. Janino sa prizn\u00e1va, \u017ee tak\u00e9to \u00faseky nem\u00e1 r\u00e1d &#8211; hrebe\u0148ovky s uzu\u010dk\u00fdmi cesti\u010dkami, kde je pod n\u00edm zr\u00e1z. Nediv\u00edm sa mu, tie\u017e mi to nie je pr\u00edjemn\u00e9. Temn\u00e9 my\u0161lienky si v\u0161ak nech\u00e1vam pre seba a jeho chv\u00e1lim, \u017ee je pa\u0161\u00e1k a \u017ee mu to ide dobre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8769-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4850\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8769-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8769-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8769-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8769-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8769-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Kone\u010dne sme v cieli n\u00e1\u0161ho dne\u0161n\u00e9ho v\u00fdstupu. V\u013eavo od n\u00e1s obdivujem Gro\u03b2er Knallstein (2599 m), na ktor\u00fd pl\u00e1nujeme vyliez\u0165 o dva t\u00fd\u017edne. Vpravo, v poriadnej dia\u013eke, sa oproti nebu dv\u00edhaj\u00fa \u0165a\u017eko pr\u00edstupn\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty a planiny pohoria Totes Gebirge (M\u0155tve hory). &#8222;Pre\u010do m\u0155tve, mamina?&#8220; p\u00fdta sa kamz\u00ed\u010da, ke\u010f mu ich ukazujem. A tak sa d\u00e1vam do vysvet\u013eovania. Hrebe\u0148 Riesnerkrispenu by n\u00e1m u\u0161etril nie len \u010das, ale aj v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 metre. Keby n\u00edm viedol turistick\u00fd chodn\u00edk. Mo\u017eno keby som st\u00e1le mala v mobile appku <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/maps.me\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/maps.me\/\" target=\"_blank\">maps.me<\/a>, na\u0161la by som tam nejak\u00fa schodn\u00fa cesti\u010dku. Nie\u010do mi v\u0161ak hovor\u00ed, \u017ee by to nebola prech\u00e1dzka ru\u017eovou z\u00e1hradou a adrenal\u00ednu malo moje die\u0165a u\u017e na tento de\u0148 akur\u00e1t tak dos\u0165. Zostupujeme na kri\u017eovatku tr\u00e1s \u010d\u00edslo 919 a 911 a odp\u00e1jame sa prudko doprava dole. Odbo\u010dka je nazna\u010den\u00e1 len dreven\u00fdm kolom nama\u013eovan\u00fdm na \u010derveno a bielo &#8211; ako zna\u010denie chodn\u00edkov v ter\u00e9ne. Pri v\u00fd\u0161\u013eape nad Finsterkarsee som sa trochu ob\u00e1vala charakteru zostupovej trasy, ale na \u0161\u0165astie sa moje obavy nepotvrdzuj\u00fa. Kamenist\u00e1 pr\u0165 je s\u00edce prudk\u00e1, ale relat\u00edvne pohodln\u00e1. V protismere stret\u00e1vame nieko\u013eko turistov a jeden p\u00e1rik vid\u00edm aj v \u00fadol\u00ed pod nami. Inak ale na tomto mieste niet \u017eivej du\u0161e a nikoho sme nestretli ani po\u010das hrebe\u0148ovky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8771-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4851\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8771-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8771-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8771-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8771-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8771-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>V tretine zostupu si d\u00e1vam na kolen\u00e1 ort\u00e9zy. Nevid\u00edm cel\u00fa dolinu, tak\u017ee po\u010d\u00edtam minim\u00e1lne e\u0161te s jedn\u00fdm v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm pad\u00e1kom, ktor\u00fd je mojim o\u010diam skryt\u00fd za tr\u00e1vnato-skaln\u00fdm prahom. Ak mi tu od\u00eddu kolen\u00e1, zvy\u0161ok trasy bude utrpenie. O druhej p\u00ed\u0161em domov Jankovi, aby n\u00e1m pozrel, dokedy prem\u00e1va lanovka, ktorou sme \u0161li hore. M\u00e1me mierny \u010dasov\u00fd sklz, no pr\u00edpadn\u00fa posledn\u00fa jazdu o pol piatej by sme mali stihn\u00fa\u0165. Akur\u00e1t by sa Janino nemohol zdr\u017ea\u0165 pri atrakci\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 sa okolo hornej stanice nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa. Mohla by som si to zisti\u0165 aj sama, ale zbyto\u010dne by ma to zdr\u017ealo dlh\u0161ie, ako posla\u0165 jednu spr\u00e1vu cez whatsapp. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8787-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4853\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8787-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8787-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8787-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8787-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8787-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Drevenice na konci Hinterer M\u04e7rsbachalm m\u00e1me na doh\u013ead. A s nimi aj partiu \u013eud\u00ed, ktor\u00ed sa o\u010dividne sna\u017eia n\u00e1js\u0165 cestu k lanovke. Od obydl\u00ed ide jednak \u0161irok\u00e1 lesn\u00e1 cesta, a jednak \u00fazky turistick\u00fd chodn\u00edk. \u010cas\u0165 turistov sa vracia a mieri na chodn\u00edk, \u010das\u0165 ost\u00e1va na ceste. Akon\u00e1hle to vid\u00ed Janino, hl\u00e1s mi, \u017ee aj on chce \u00eds\u0165 po ceste. Pri chate \u010d\u00edtam spr\u00e1vu od Janka, \u017ee lanovka je v prev\u00e1dzke do 18:00, \u010do znamen\u00e1, \u017ee posledn\u00e1 jazda dole bude o pol \u0161iestej. OK, m\u00e1me dostatok \u010dasu a aj rezervu na hry a pr\u00edpadn\u00e9 ob\u010derstvenie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8793-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4854\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8793-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8793-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8793-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8793-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8793-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Z\u00e1rove\u0148 pozer\u00e1m do mapy. Lesn\u00e1 cesta kon\u010d\u00ed asi tridsa\u0165 metrov nad ofici\u00e1lnym chodn\u00edkom ako slep\u00e1 ulica. Dr\u017e\u00edme sa preto rad\u0161ej zna\u010dky a po kame\u0148och a hline st\u00fapame hore. Medzi\u010dasom sa nad nami nazbierala obla\u010dnos\u0165, tak\u017ee slnie\u010dko je viac schovan\u00e9 &#8211; a to je len dobre. \u010cloveku sa tak kr\u00e1\u010da do kopca \u013eah\u0161ie. \u010co by nezakryli oblaky, zakryl by bl\u00edzky les. Ten v\u0161ak zakr\u00fdva aj chodn\u00edk a my sme zrazu medzi popadan\u00fdmi kon\u00e1rmi ihli\u010dnat\u00fdch stromov nad potokom a nevieme, kadia\u013e pokra\u010dova\u0165. Pozer\u00e1m pod seba a k\u00fasok ni\u017e\u0161ie vid\u00edm, kadia\u013e sme mali \u00eds\u0165. Ak som niekde ob\u010das straten\u00e1, je to sk\u00f4r obchodn\u00e9 centrum, nie les, ale \u00fanava \u00faraduje. Uber\u00e1me na tempe a rad\u0161ej d\u00f4kladne sledujeme \u010derveno-biele zna\u010denie na stromoch a skal\u00e1ch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8797-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4855\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8797-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8797-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8797-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8797-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8797-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Unaven\u00e9 nohy silne protestuj\u00fa proti ka\u017ed\u00e9mu \u010fal\u0161iemu v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9mu metru a ja ka\u017ed\u00fa chv\u00ed\u013eu stoj\u00edm, fun\u00edm  a sy\u010d\u00edm ako parn\u00e1 lokomot\u00edva. M\u00e1me pred sebou posledn\u00fd \u00fasek a mne sa zd\u00e1 by\u0165 nekone\u010dn\u00fd. Akon\u00e1hle sa dost\u00e1vame na \u0161irok\u00fa \u0161trkov\u00fa cestu ved\u00facu k vrchnej stanici lanovky, m\u00f4jmu die\u0165a\u0165u ako keby niekto vymenil baterky. Poskakuje, pobehuje, posledn\u00e9 metre do kopca k re\u0161tike pri lanovke doslova a do p\u00edsmena be\u017e\u00ed. Nech\u00e1pem, kde sa v \u0148om e\u0161te berie to\u013eko energie, ale som za to rada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8826-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4856\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8826-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8826-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8826-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8826-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8826-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Na dreven\u00fa lavicu na terase re\u0161taur\u00e1cie doslova odpad\u00e1vam. Objedn\u00e1vam kolu Jan\u00edkovi a sebe nealkoholick\u00e9 pivo. Zdr\u017eiava\u0165 sa ve\u013ek\u00fdm jeden\u00edm sa mi nechce, je nie\u010do po \u0161tvrtej a n\u00e1s \u010dak\u00e1 \u0161tvorhodinov\u00e1 cesta domov. P\u00f4vodne som odtia\u013eto chcela \u00eds\u0165 pe\u0161i nazad k medzistanici, preto som nebalila plavky ani uter\u00e1k. Ako tak sed\u00edm a sledujem deti \u010d\u013eapkaj\u00face sa v baz\u00e9ne re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, \u013eutujem toto rozhodnutie. Mus\u00ed mi sta\u010di\u0165 studen\u00e9 pivo. A potom nanuk. Definit\u00edvne mi do\u0161iel cukor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"798\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8835-1200x798.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4857\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8835-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8835-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8835-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8835-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/DSC_8835-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>O pol piatej sad\u00e1me na seda\u010dku lanovky a nech\u00e1vame sa odviez\u0165 dole. V aute sa prez\u00favame a prezliekame a okolo \u0161tvr\u0165 na \u0161es\u0165 vol\u00e1m domov Jankovi, \u017ee vyr\u00e1\u017eame. Dohadujem sa s n\u00edm na ve\u010deri a hovor ukon\u010dujem s t\u00fdm, \u017ee mu budem vola\u0165 od rafin\u00e9rie vo Viedni. To m\u00e1 presne \u0161tyridsa\u0165 min\u00fat na to, aby n\u00e1m pripravil jes\u0165. M\u00e1m rada tak\u00e9to n\u00e1vraty. Ke\u010f on ost\u00e1va doma a my zni\u010den\u00ed, spoten\u00ed, unaven\u00ed pr\u00eddeme domov a \u010dak\u00e1 n\u00e1s tepl\u00e1 ve\u010dera.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"848\" height=\"173\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Donnersbachwand-zhrnutie.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5013\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Donnersbachwand-zhrnutie.jpg 848w, https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Donnersbachwand-zhrnutie-768x157.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 848px) 100vw, 848px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"687\" height=\"544\" src=\"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Donnersbachwand-okruh.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5011\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Predpove\u010f s\u013eubuje na nede\u013eu ove\u013ea lep\u0161ie po\u010dasie ako bolo to, ktor\u00e9 n\u00e1s sprev\u00e1dzalo po\u010das v\u00fdletu na Plannereck (2003 m) de\u0148 pred t\u00fdm. Pl\u00e1n m\u00e1m viac menej ist\u00fd, v\u0161etko z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed len na tom, \u010di sa predpovedn\u00e9 modely trafia alebo nie. A ja d\u00fafam, \u017ee sa trafia, lebo \u0161tyri hodiny cesty kv\u00f4li malej prech\u00e1dzke nad hotelom by [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4853,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4828","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stajersko","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4828","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4828"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4828\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5046,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4828\/revisions\/5046"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4853"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4828"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4828"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4828"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}