{"id":4790,"date":"2023-07-30T21:21:24","date_gmt":"2023-07-30T19:21:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4790"},"modified":"2023-08-27T12:12:58","modified_gmt":"2023-08-27T10:12:58","slug":"grand-canyon-europy-%d3%a7tschergraben","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4790","title":{"rendered":"Grand Canyon Eur\u00f3py – \u04e6tschergraben"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Do oblasti Ybbstalsk\u00fdch \u00c1lp prich\u00e1dzame u\u017e v piatok podve\u010der a ubytov\u00e1vame sa v JUFA Hotel Annaberg<\/a>. Je iba nieko\u013eko min\u00fat cesty autom od Wienerbrucku – vstupnej br\u00e1ny do ka\u0148onu \u04e6tschergraben a Hinterer Tormauer<\/a>. Ke\u010f\u017ee ost\u00e1vame na dve noci, pani na recepcii ka\u017ed\u00e9mu z n\u00e1s vystav\u00ed Wilde Wunder Card<\/a>. T\u00e1 dr\u017eite\u013eovi poskytuje mno\u017estvo v\u00fdhod – napr\u00edklad vstup do rokl\u00edn a aj lanovky na Hochkar, Gemeindalpe, \u04e6tscher a Hennesteck s\u00fa s \u0148ou zadarmo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch v pohode a bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ieho zhonu bal\u00edme, \u010do budeme po\u010das d\u0148a potrebova\u0165. Okrem mno\u017estva vody do ruksaku h\u00e1d\u017eem aj opa\u013eovac\u00ed kr\u00e9m a miesto tri\u010dka na seba navliekam plavky. Smejem sa sama na sebe – po\u010das dovolenky v Chorv\u00e1tsku som ich v j\u00fani nemala oble\u010den\u00e9 ani raz. Pr\u00eddem na v\u00edkend do h\u00f4r a plavky pova\u017eujem za nevyhnutn\u00fa s\u00fa\u010das\u0165 v\u00fdbavy. \ud83d\ude42 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pribli\u017ene o deviatej r\u00e1no h\u013ead\u00e1me vo Wienerbrucku parkovacie miesto. Parkovisko bezprostredne pri vlakovej stanici u\u017e je pln\u00e9 a pr\u00edjazd na\u0148 je blokovan\u00fd ve\u013ekou modrou tabu\u013eou, ktor\u00e1 n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkov smeruje na parkovisko vzdialen\u00e9 200m. Ne\u010faleko je parkovac\u00ed automat. Pe\u0148a\u017eenka pln\u00e1 minc\u00ed, ke\u010f\u017ee pred dvoma rokmi sa inak ako mincami plati\u0165 nedalo. V bezprostrednej bl\u00edzkosti automatu vid\u00edm, \u017ee som mince \u0161kre\u010dkovala cel\u00fd t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 \u00faplne zbyto\u010dne. U\u017e sa d\u00e1 plati\u0165 aj bankomatovou kartou alebo smart hodinkami. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Partia mlad\u00fdch, ktor\u00ed zaparkovali ved\u013ea n\u00e1s, bezn\u00e1dejne h\u013ead\u00ed do mapy a na smerovn\u00edky. P\u00fdtam sa ich, kam maj\u00fa namieren\u00e9. Chc\u00fa sa dosta\u0165 hore na \u04e6tscher. „From this point?“ p\u00fdtam sa neveriaco. Ka\u017ed\u00e1 trasa trv\u00e1 na vrchol okolo sedem hod\u00edn, a to je len jedn\u00fdm smerom. Nevad\u00ed, oni to zvl\u00e1dnu. Kr\u010d\u00edm ramenami a prip\u00e1jam sa k mojim chlapom. Ke\u010f si niekto nechce da\u0165 poradi\u0165, aby sa previezol do Lackenhofu a vy\u0161liapal na \u04e6tscher odtia\u013e, nem\u00f4\u017eem ho n\u00fati\u0165. Okolo vodnej n\u00e1dr\u017ee vch\u00e1dzame do lesa a a\u017e ku elektr\u00e1rni je moja a Janinova cesta rovnak\u00e1 ako bola pred dvoma rokmi. Turistick\u00fd chodn\u00edk sa rozde\u013euje a\u017e dole za mostom. Op\u00e4\u0165 stret\u00e1vame partiu mlad\u00fdch – pri elektr\u00e1rni odbo\u010dili zle a i\u0161li slepou trasou. Vracaj\u00fa sa sp\u00e4\u0165 a rozhliadaj\u00fa sa okolo seba. Napokon nasleduj\u00fa davy ostatn\u00fdch a prip\u00e1jaj\u00fa sa k nim. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Hovor\u00edm si, u\u017e som videla Hinterer aj Vorderer Tormauer, \u04e6tschergraben ma neprekvap\u00ed. Nu\u017e, hovor\u00edm si to len asi prv\u00fdch p\u00e4\u0165 min\u00fat. Potom mi pad\u00e1 s\u00e1nka. \u04e6tschergraben prekvapuje. Je \u00faplne in\u00e1 ako jej dve men\u0161ie sestry. Je n\u00e1dhern\u00e1. Moje plavky maj\u00fa svoje opodstatnenie. Ako prech\u00e1dzame okolo potoka a vodn\u00fdch baz\u00e9nikov, sna\u017e\u00edm sa n\u00e1js\u0165 miesto, kde by sme sa v narastaj\u00facom pekl\u00ed\u010dku mohli na chv\u00ed\u013eu zlo\u017ei\u0165 a ok\u00fapa\u0165. Alebo aspo\u0148 omo\u010di\u0165 nohy. Bez \u00faspechu – v\u0161etky pr\u00edstupn\u00e9 baz\u00e9novit\u00e9 mieste\u010dka s\u00fa obsaden\u00e9 \u013eu\u010fmi, ktor\u00ed sem pri\u0161li sk\u00f4r. Nevad\u00ed. Sn\u00e1\u010f sa podar\u00ed n\u00e1js\u0165 nejak\u00e9 z\u00e1kutie, kde sa aj bude da\u0165 namo\u010di\u0165 nohy aj sadn\u00fa\u0165 do tie\u0148a. Ani nevieme ako a sme pri chate \u04e6tscherhias. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina dreven\u00fdch lav\u00edc je pr\u00e1zdna, pri okienku je pred nami len jeden \u010dlovek. P\u00fdtame si nealkoholick\u00e9 pivo a kolu, Janino si pros\u00ed aj kol\u00e1\u010d z lineck\u00e9ho cesta plnen\u00fd d\u017eemom. Nejak\u00e9 to jedlo so sebou s\u00edce m\u00e1me, ale cukor nikdy nie je na t\u00fare zl\u00fd. Sad\u00e1me si na lavicu pri jednom z krajn\u00fdch stolov, kde si m\u00f4\u017eem oprie\u0165 m\u00f4j termin\u00e1torsk\u00fd chrb\u00e1t o stenu. Nie sme ani v polovici jedenia a pitia, ke\u010f n\u00e1s doslova obk\u013e\u00fa\u010di dav turistov \u010dakaj\u00facich v rade. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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E\u0161te zast\u00e1vka na latr\u00edne a pokra\u010dujeme \u010falej. V podstate nem\u00e1me presn\u00fd cie\u013e cesty, riadime sa len t\u00fdm, ako ve\u013emi sa n\u00e1m chce a ako ve\u013emi je n\u00e1m teplo. P\u00e1r min\u00fat po odchode z \u04e6tscherhias ordinujem pauzu pri vode. S\u00edce som nena\u0161la \u017eiadne hlb\u0161ie miesto ani ni\u010d, kde by sa dalo vyslovene ok\u00fapa\u0165, ale je tu aspo\u0148 ak\u00fd tak\u00fd tie\u0148, v ktorom sa Janko m\u00f4\u017ee schova\u0165, k\u00fdm sa my s Janinom vyja\u0161\u00edme. Moje ja\u0161enie nakoniec spo\u010d\u00edva v opatrnom prejden\u00ed potoka tam a nazad a kon\u0161tatovan\u00ed, \u017ee omo\u010di\u0165 nohy v tej \u013eadovej vode \u00faplne sta\u010d\u00ed. Po chv\u00edli sa prip\u00e1jam ku svojmu man\u017eelovi v tieni stromov a oddychujem. Ke\u010f si na kolene zbad\u00e1m klie\u0161\u0165a, h\u013eadaj\u00faceho nejak\u00e9 to m\u00e4kk\u00e9 a pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 mieste\u010dko, kde by sa mi mohol zav\u0155ta\u0165 do ko\u017ee, vel\u00edm odchod. Janinovi sa pr\u00edli\u0161 nechce, ale dar\u00ed sa n\u00e1m ukeca\u0165 ho, \u017ee sa ur\u010dite e\u0161te niekde zastav\u00edme na dlh\u0161ie, aby sa mohol hra\u0165. Pri vodop\u00e1de Mirafall je ukryt\u00fdch v pr\u00edjemnom tieni stromov nieko\u013eko dreven\u00fdch stolov a lavi\u010diek. Janino sa p\u00fdta, \u010di to je ten vodop\u00e1d, ktor\u00fd m\u00e1 na magnetke. Pri poh\u013eade na tenk\u00e9, sk\u00f4r kvapkaj\u00face ne\u017e te\u010d\u00face, pramienky vody je jeho ot\u00e1zka na mieste. Poslednou dobou tu evidentne bolo sucho. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K\u00fdm sa kamz\u00edk „d\u017eabe“ v potoku a stavia si z kame\u0148ov priehrady, my si u\u017e\u00edvame chl\u00e1dok. Pozer\u00e1me do mapy a rozhodujeme sa, \u010do \u010falej. Ku \u010fal\u0161iemu vodop\u00e1du (alebo k tomu, \u010do z neho v lete ostalo) by to pod\u013ea Janka mala by\u0165 zhruba hodina. Medzi\u010das m\u00e1me dobr\u00fd, nepon\u00e1h\u013eame sa nikam. Sp\u00e4\u0165 k autu p\u00f4jdeme vlakom Mariazellbahn. Ale nechce sa n\u00e1m. Nie v tomto teple. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po pol hodine sa ot\u00e1\u010dame nazad ku \u04e6tscherhias. Znova si d\u00e1vame kolu a nealko pivo a znova m\u00e1me \u0161\u0165atie, \u017ee si m\u00e1me kam sadn\u00fa\u0165 a \u017ee pri v\u00fddajnom okienku nie je takmer \u017eiaden rad. Z\u00e1jazd ma\u010farsk\u00fdch turistov prich\u00e1dza v tesnom z\u00e1vese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

St\u00fapame lesom popri potoku a ka\u0148on nech\u00e1vame definit\u00edvne za sebou. A s n\u00edm aj davy \u013eud\u00ed pr\u00fadiacich oboma smermi. Nie \u017ee by sme na chodn\u00edku ku Erlaufstausee boli sami, ale turistov je tu neporovnate\u013ene menej. Pri stanici s n\u00e1zvom Erlaufklause sme za necel\u00fa hodinku. Pani pri okienku si berie na\u0161e turistick\u00e9 karty a vyd\u00e1va n\u00e1m l\u00edstky na vlak s polovi\u010dnou z\u013eavou. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ako prv\u00fd prich\u00e1dza vlak smeruj\u00faci do Mitterbachu. Na ten n\u00e1\u0161 si mus\u00edme po\u010dka\u0165 e\u0161te dobr\u00fdch desa\u0165 min\u00fat. Z pr\u00edjemne klimatizovanej s\u00fapravy sa n\u00e1m vo Wienerbrucku nechce vystupova\u0165. Ochoty m\u00e1me o to menej, o \u010do viac sme si v\u0161etci traja vedom\u00ed, \u017ee v aute bude ako v saune. Nevad\u00ed, vyvetr\u00e1me. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Do oblasti Ybbstalsk\u00fdch \u00c1lp prich\u00e1dzame u\u017e v piatok podve\u010der a ubytov\u00e1vame sa v JUFA Hotel Annaberg. Je iba nieko\u013eko min\u00fat cesty autom od Wienerbrucku – vstupnej br\u00e1ny do ka\u0148onu \u04e6tschergraben a Hinterer Tormauer. Ke\u010f\u017ee ost\u00e1vame na dve noci, pani na recepcii ka\u017ed\u00e9mu z n\u00e1s vystav\u00ed Wilde Wunder Card. T\u00e1 dr\u017eite\u013eovi poskytuje mno\u017estvo v\u00fdhod – napr\u00edklad […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4864,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[33,56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4790","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-dolne-rakusko","category-vylety-s-detmi","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4790","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4790"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4790\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4872,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4790\/revisions\/4872"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4864"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4790"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4790"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4790"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}