{"id":4732,"date":"2023-07-10T19:22:55","date_gmt":"2023-07-10T17:22:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4732"},"modified":"2023-08-30T19:52:05","modified_gmt":"2023-08-30T17:52:05","slug":"h%d3%a7llengebirge-gro%ce%b2er-h%d3%a7llkogel-1862-m","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4732","title":{"rendered":"H\u04e7llengebirge – Gro\u03b2er H\u04e7llkogel (1862 m)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

P\u00f4vodne som mala uplynul\u00fa sobotu r\u00e1no op\u00fa\u0161\u0165a\u0165 Berliner H\u00fctte a vraca\u0165 sa po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch d\u0148och str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v Zillert\u00e1lskych Alp\u00e1ch popod Zsigmondyspitze a dolinou Gunggl nazad k autu. \u010clovek mieni, po\u010dasie a in\u00ed \u013eudia menia. Ke\u010f mi de\u0148 po tom, \u010do som Zillertal zru\u0161ila, zavolala Kika, \u010di by sme spolu nie\u010do v lete nesp\u00e1chali, nev\u00e1hala som ani sekundu a „zapichla som prst do mapy“. Na potulky sme mali ma\u0165 len sobotu a nede\u013eu, nechcela som preto str\u00e1ca\u0165 \u010das dlh\u00fdm cestovan\u00edm. Vo\u013eba padla na Traunsee v So\u013enej komore a po p\u00e1r min\u00fatach u\u017e sme mali rezervovan\u00e9 aj ubytovanie<\/a> v meste\u010dku Ebensee na jeho ju\u017enom konci. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kri\u017eovatka turistick\u00fdch chodn\u00edkov ne\u010faleko lanovky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pohorie H\u04e7llengebirge n\u00e1s v sobotu doobeda v\u00edtalo a\u017e z tesnej bl\u00edzkosti, vo v\u00fdh\u013eade z dia\u013eky n\u00e1m zavadzali men\u0161ie zalesnen\u00e9 kopce Farnaugupf (1239 m), Falmachgupft (1006 m) a Hohenaugupft (1062 m). Ako sme tak odmeriavali posledn\u00e9 kilometre dolinou, definit\u00edvne sme sa zhodli na tom, \u017ee hore a dole ideme lanovkou<\/a>. Leniv\u00fa variantu v\u00fdletu „odobrila“ aj vonkaj\u0161ia teplota vzduchu. Strm\u00fdm kopcom hore by to za slne\u010dn\u00e9ho a hor\u00faceho letn\u00e9ho d\u0148a bola samovra\u017eda. Hory by sme si neu\u017eili. (\u00c1no, mohli sme pr\u00eds\u0165 sk\u00f4r, ale…)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

U\u017e na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead mi H\u04e7llengebirge pripomenulo Hochschwab. Tak ako moja srdcovka je aj toto pohorie v\u00e1pencov\u00e9 a kamko\u013evek sa na n\u00e1hornej plo\u0161ine vyberiete, sprev\u00e1dza\u0165 v\u00e1s bud\u00fa ve\u013ek\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 rozdiely (medzi najvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm a najni\u017e\u0161\u00edm bodom je 508 m), z\u00e1vrty, prepadlisk\u00e1 a in\u00e9 krasov\u00e9 javy. A nedostatok vody.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K\u00fdm k Dachsteinu a Totes Gebirge sa H\u04e7llengebirge zva\u017euje miernej\u0161ie a svahy s\u00fa preva\u017ene zalesnen\u00e9, smerom na sever, ku Vorderer a Hinterer Langbathsee, padaj\u00fa dole takmer kolm\u00e9 skalnat\u00e9 zr\u00e1zy. V\u00fdh\u013eady na ne ocen\u00edte a naplno si ich u\u017eijete pr\u00e1ve z brehov t\u00fdchto dvoch horsk\u00fdch jazier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e1r min\u00fat po desiatej n\u00e1s v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke pribli\u017ene 1600 m ovieva svie\u017ei vetr\u00edk. Len v tenk\u00fdch tri\u010dk\u00e1ch a kr\u00e1tkych nohaviciach si hovor\u00edme ako fajn, aspo\u0148 n\u00e1m nebude pr\u00edli\u0161 teplo. N\u00e1zor men\u00edme kr\u00e1tko po tom, \u010do sa dost\u00e1vame na cestu F. Haas Weg. T\u00e1 sa vinie v z\u00e1vetr\u00ed pomedzi Alberfeldkogel (1707 m) a Hochschneid (1752 m) a vietor nech\u00e1va v zabudnut\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u010c\u00edm viac do „vn\u00fatrozemia“ vch\u00e1dzame, t\u00fdm viac sa men\u00ed charakter turistick\u00e9ho chodn\u00edka. Spo\u010diatku to bola sk\u00f4r zemina so \u0161trkom, nesk\u00f4r zeminy ub\u00fada a prib\u00fadaj\u00fa skaly, skalky a skaln\u00e9 schody. Vo svojich barefoot turistick\u00fdch merelloch <\/a>si u\u017e\u00edvam pri\u013enavos\u0165 vibramovej podr\u00e1\u017eky. Ka\u017ed\u00fdm krokom sa moja noha spolu s top\u00e1nkou doslova obop\u00edna o povrch a dr\u017e\u00ed ako prilepen\u00e1. Trochu menej si u\u017e\u00edvam zl\u00e9 na\u0161liapnutie, ak si ned\u00e1m pozor a skon\u010d\u00edm chodidlom na hrane nejak\u00e9ho kame\u0148a. Tenk\u00e1 podr\u00e1\u017eka do\u0161\u013eap netlm\u00ed a ja hranu c\u00edtim v celej jej „kr\u00e1se“. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chodn\u00edkom \u010d. 804 za\u010d\u00edname kone\u010dne st\u00fapa\u0165. Prech\u00e1dzame rozpr\u00e1vkovou skalnou takmer br\u00e1nou popod Totengrabengupf (1782 m) a ten \u013eah\u0161\u00ed a turisticky nen\u00e1ro\u010dnej\u0161\u00ed ter\u00e9n nech\u00e1vame za sebou. Za\u010d\u00edna z\u00e1bava. Pred nami je men\u0161\u00ed \u00fasek isten\u00fd oce\u013eov\u00fdm lanom. Kto chce, m\u00f4\u017ee ho ob\u00eds\u0165 spodkom, men\u0161ou skalnou \u00fa\u017e\u013eabinou. Ale \u010do sme my hor\u0161ie ako kamz\u00edky? Po prekonan\u00ed tohto \u00faseku st\u00fapame \u010falej a obdivujeme strm\u00e9 zr\u00e1zy Gro\u03b2er Totengraben. \u010clovek m\u00e1 pocit, ako keby tu kedysi nejak\u00fd obor za\u0165al sekeru a potom bez pov\u0161imnutia pokra\u010doval vo svojej ceste. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na kri\u017eovatke osemstodvadsiatky a osemstotridsa\u0165trojky sa zdrav\u00edme „hello“ p\u00e1ru tridsiatnikov. Chalan n\u00e1m odpoved\u00e1 „hezky \u010desky“ a tak sa d\u00e1vame do re\u010di. Upozor\u0148ujem ich, \u017ee chata Rieder H\u00fctte je zatvoren\u00e1 (vedie k nej cesta \u010d. 822, aj touto trasou sa d\u00e1 dosta\u0165 na Gro\u03b2er H\u04e7llkogel, trv\u00e1 to pribli\u017ene o pol hodinku dlh\u0161ie). Skracuj\u00fa si svoj p\u00f4vodn\u00fd pl\u00e1n a pokra\u010duj\u00fa po chodn\u00edku \u010d. 833 s nami. \u00dazkou a strmou skalnou \u00fa\u017e\u013eabinou kles\u00e1me, \u010do sme si pred chv\u00ed\u013eou nast\u00fapali. Cie\u013e sobotnej t\u00fary m\u00e1me na doh\u013ead a je n\u00e1m jasn\u00e9, \u017ee \u010d\u00edm viac p\u00f4jdeme v tomto \u00faseku dole, t\u00fdm viac budeme nesk\u00f4r st\u00fapa\u0165, aby sme sa dostali k vrcholov\u00e9mu kr\u00ed\u017eu. \u00da\u017e\u013eabina kon\u010d\u00ed vy\u0161\u0161\u00edm skaln\u00fdm prahom, ktor\u00fd je od turistov slu\u0161ne vyhladen\u00fd. Pridr\u017eiavaj\u00fac sa okolit\u00fdch v\u00fdstupkov jeho prekonanie nie je \u017eiaden probl\u00e9m. Chodn\u00edk sa st\u00e1\u010da do \u013eava medzi kosodrevinu a \u010falej kles\u00e1, len v miernej\u0161om sklone. Na jeho konci sa prip\u00e1jame k osemsotridsiatke, ktor\u00e1 vedie od uzavretej chaty na men\u0161\u00ed Schneekogel (1403 m) na hrane pohoria a strm\u00fdm pad\u00e1kom a\u017e do \u00fadolia pod n\u00edm. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Odbo\u010dujeme vpravo, akoby sme sa vracali k chate. V miernom sklone naberieme zop\u00e1r v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov a dost\u00e1vame sa k za\u010diatku z\u00e1vere\u010dn\u00e9ho v\u00fd\u0161\u013eapu. Ten n\u00e1m predo\u0161l\u00e9 klesanie nedaruje ani za ni\u010d. Cesti\u010dka sa k\u013eukat\u00ed ako had v tr\u00e1ve a vedie n\u00e1s pr\u00edkro hore. V teple fu\u010d\u00edm s\u0165a parn\u00e1 lokomot\u00edva a po tristodev\u00e4\u0165desiatej \u00f4smej zast\u00e1vke hovor\u00edm Kike, nech ide svoj\u00edm tempom a stretneme sa pri kr\u00ed\u017ei. Nechce ma nech\u00e1va\u0165 sam\u00fa, ale vid\u00ed, \u017ee podo mnou je skupinka piatich \u010fal\u0161\u00edch \u013eud\u00ed. Pokra\u010dujeme ka\u017ed\u00e1 po svojom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od hor\u00fa\u010davy a absencie v\u00fdraznej\u0161ieho vetra si idem p\u013e\u00faca vyp\u013eu\u0165, ke\u010f v tom v protismere stret\u00e1vam zop\u00e1r mlad\u00fdch turistov so psom. Vraj e\u0161te asi desa\u0165 min\u00fat a som v cieli. A hore pr\u00edjemne f\u00faka a je tam chladno. Vidina desiatich min\u00fat v strmom kopci je prehlu\u0161en\u00e1 vidinou VETRA. Zat\u00ednam zuby a kladiem nohu pred nohu. Desa\u0165 min\u00fat, to bude peklo, hovor\u00edm si v duchu. Znovu stoj\u00edm a spoza kosodreviny sa zjavuje Kika. „Poooooo\u010f, tie posledn\u00e9 metre u\u017e d\u00e1\u0161,“ kr\u00ed\u010d\u00ed na m\u0148a s \u00fasmevom jej vlastn\u00fdm. A naozaj, som hore. Toto nebolo desa\u0165 min\u00fat. To boli tak slab\u00e9 tri. Vrchol na \u0161\u0165astie nie je ostr\u00fd ani ukon\u010den\u00fd strm\u00fdmi priepas\u0165ami, tak\u017ee aj ke\u010f sa n\u00e1s tu nazbieralo zo desa\u0165, ka\u017ed\u00fd si vie pohodlne sadn\u00fa\u0165 do tr\u00e1vy a zjes\u0165 svoj proviant. V\u00fdh\u013ead je … slu\u0161n\u00fd. Nenap\u00ed\u0161em „dychber\u00faci“ ani „fantastick\u00fd“, tieto pr\u00edvlastky maj\u00fa u m\u0148a in\u00e9 miesta. Rozhodne v\u0161ak nie je ani na zahodenie. \u0160koda vysokej teploty vzduchu, vidite\u013enos\u0165 by ur\u010dite bola lep\u0161ia. Na \u013eavo od n\u00e1s m\u00e1me ako na dlani severoz\u00e1padn\u00e9 okraje Totes Gebirge, \u010falej na juh vidie\u0165 nie\u010do z Katergebirge nad Bad Ischlom a pri troche snahy a v\u010faka snehu sa n\u00e1m ukazuje aj Dachstein. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Poh\u013ead na M\u0155tve hory (Totes Gebirge)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sk\u00f4r ne\u017e sa vyberieme nazad ku lanovke, dohadujeme sa, ktorou cestou \u00eds\u0165. T\u00fa v\u00fdstupov\u00fa m\u00e1me ako na dlani a skaln\u00e1 \u00fa\u017e\u013eabina n\u00e1s nel\u00e1ka. Ku chate a potom okolo nej po osemstodvadsiatke to pod\u013ea vrstevn\u00edc vyzer\u00e1 prijate\u013enej\u0161ie. Nepon\u00e1h\u013eame sa, posledn\u00e1 lanovka ide o \u0161iestej a dovtedy sa vr\u00e1time aj s obch\u00e1dzkou. Na kri\u017eovatke pod z\u00e1vere\u010dn\u00fdm v\u00fd\u0161\u013eapom sa nevraciame ako sme pri\u0161li, ale odbo\u010dujeme do \u013eava ku Rieder H\u00fctte. Ter\u00e9n je pr\u00edjemn\u00fd a aj ke\u010f sa vln\u00ed smerom dohora, nie je to nijak\u00e9 prudk\u00e9 st\u00fapanie. Cez skaln\u00e9 platne, skaly a r\u00f4zne ve\u013ek\u00e9 kamene obch\u00e1dzame priepasti a z\u00e1vrty a ani nevieme ako – sme pri chate. Op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame osemstotridsiatku a obl\u00fakom sa vraciame k miestu, kde hore kon\u010d\u00ed \u00fa\u017e\u013eabina, ktorej sme sa chceli vyhn\u00fa\u0165. Z dia\u013eky vid\u00edme, \u017ee ostatn\u00ed u\u017e s\u00fa na jej vrchole. N\u00e1m to trv\u00e1 e\u0161te dobr\u00fdch dvadsa\u0165 min\u00fat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Reidner Hutte<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od tejto kri\u017eovatky, kde sa nap\u00e1jame na osemsto\u0161tvorku, u\u017e ideme rovnakou cestou ako pred obedom. M\u00e1me za sebou len \u0161tyri hodiny vr\u00e1tane prest\u00e1vok, ale nedostatok vetra a teplota nad 25\u00b0C n\u00e1s unavili viac ako keby sme sa \u0161tverali niekam na Windberg (1903 m) od dedinky Altenberg an der Rax. N\u00e1vrat sa n\u00e1m zd\u00e1 nekone\u010dn\u00fd. Ke\u010f sa z nohy na nohu vle\u010dieme popod Alberfeldkogel, smejeme sa sam\u00e9 sebe, \u017ee sme sa na\u0148 cestou nazad chceli vy\u0161tvera\u0165. U\u017e nechceme. U\u017e sa chceme len dosta\u0165 do niektor\u00e9ho hostinca okolo lanovky a da\u0165 si chladen\u00e9 nealko pivo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Op\u00e4\u0165 M\u0155tve hory<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sen sa n\u00e1m pln\u00ed okolo \u0161tvr\u0165 na p\u00e4\u0165. Od Rieder H\u00fctte n\u00e1m to malo trva\u0165 dve hodiny a tento \u010das sme aj s prest\u00e1vkami dodr\u017eali, tak\u017ee tempo sme mali o\u010dividne lep\u0161ie ako sa n\u00e1m zdalo. Sad\u00e1me si k jedin\u00e9mu vo\u013en\u00e9mu stolu neviem v ktorom to pohostinstve a objedn\u00e1vame dve nealko piv\u00e1. V tieni mi na noh\u00e1ch naskakuj\u00fa zimomriavky a ja ve\u013emi dobre viem, \u010do sa deje. Odi\u0161li mi aj posledn\u00e9 zvy\u0161ky energie. C\u00edtim sa hor\u0161ie ako po v\u00fdstupe na Hochschwab z Bodenbauer a n\u00e1slednom zostupe na chatu Voistallerh\u00fctte, a to sme \u010dasovo aj v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdmi metrami pre\u0161li ove\u013ea menej. Ke\u010f sme vlani \u0161li s Jan\u00edkom na Hochschwab, nesvietilo n\u00e1m do toho slnie\u010dko a nepripadali sme si ako na grile. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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E\u0161te raz M\u0155tve hory – od stanice lanovky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Okolo \u00f4smej ve\u010der, po ve\u010deri v penzi\u00f3ne, kde sp\u00edme, sa Kika e\u0161te sna\u017e\u00ed udr\u017eiava\u0165 konverz\u00e1ciu. Odpoved\u00e1m jednoslovne, z posledn\u00fdch s\u00edl. Akon\u00e1hle ostane chv\u00ed\u013eu ticho, vyp\u00edna ma ako keby mi niekto vybral baterky. V nede\u013eu m\u00e1 by\u0165 e\u0161te hor\u00facej\u0161ie. \u017diaden v\u00fd\u0161\u013eap na Eiberg (1598 m), aby sme mali jazero Offensee (649 m) ako na dlani. Pekne kr\u00e1sne sa budeme dr\u017ea\u0165 pri zemi a hlavne v tieni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Poh\u013ead na Traunstein a jazero traunsee<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

P\u00f4vodne som mala uplynul\u00fa sobotu r\u00e1no op\u00fa\u0161\u0165a\u0165 Berliner H\u00fctte a vraca\u0165 sa po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch d\u0148och str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v Zillert\u00e1lskych Alp\u00e1ch popod Zsigmondyspitze a dolinou Gunggl nazad k autu. \u010clovek mieni, po\u010dasie a in\u00ed \u013eudia menia. Ke\u010f mi de\u0148 po tom, \u010do som Zillertal zru\u0161ila, zavolala Kika, \u010di by sme spolu nie\u010do v lete nesp\u00e1chali, nev\u00e1hala som […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4763,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[34],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4732","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-salzkammergut","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4732","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4732"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4732\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5022,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4732\/revisions\/5022"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4763"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4732"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4732"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4732"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}