{"id":4559,"date":"2023-06-14T10:34:23","date_gmt":"2023-06-14T08:34:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4559"},"modified":"2023-06-14T10:41:20","modified_gmt":"2023-06-14T08:41:20","slug":"kanon-velika-paklenica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4559","title":{"rendered":"Ka\u0148on Velika Paklenica"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ke\u010f v druhej polovici m\u00e1ja napadlo v talianskych Dolomitoch meter nov\u00e9ho snehu, moje pl\u00e1ny na j\u00fanov\u00fa dovolenku v hor\u00e1ch sa definit\u00edvne rozplynuli. A ke\u010f Janko na\u0161iel v Srime ne\u010faleko \u0160ibeniku pr\u00edjemn\u00fd apartm\u00e1n<\/a> za ve\u013emi dobr\u00fa cenu, neost\u00e1valo mi in\u00e9 ako n\u00e1js\u0165 si program v Chorv\u00e1tsku. Ani vo sne mi v tej chv\u00edli nenapadlo, \u017ee ma tento pr\u00edmorsk\u00fd \u0161t\u00e1t nato\u013eko uchv\u00e1ti rozpr\u00e1vkovou krajinou pohoria Velebit, v ktorom sa okrem rovnomenn\u00e9ho n\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku v severnej \u010dasti nach\u00e1dza aj n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park Paklenica<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zo Srimy vyr\u00e1\u017eame o siedmej r\u00e1no, aby sme pribli\u017ene o \u00f4smej boli na mieste. U\u017e za Benkovacom mi za\u010d\u00edna \u013eudovo povedan\u00e9 pada\u0165 s\u00e1nka pri poh\u013eade na majest\u00e1tne pohorie, ktor\u00e9 sa n\u00e1m postupne ukazuje v celej svojej kr\u00e1se. Od obce Posedarje a\u017e do Maslenice mi v hlave neust\u00e1le znie pam\u00e4tn\u00e1 hl\u00e1\u0161ka z filmu Vesni\u010dko m\u00e1 st\u0159ediskov\u00e1 „Vy ste se zase kochal, pane doktore“. Koch\u00e1m sa aj ja. V Maslenici plat\u00edme m\u00fdto za pou\u017eitie dia\u013enice a sch\u00e1dzame na miestnu komunik\u00e1ciu ved\u00facu popri pobre\u017e\u00ed do Starigradu, ktor\u00fd je vstupom do nezabudnute\u013en\u00e9ho ka\u0148onu Velika Paklenica. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

U\u017e z dia\u013eky n\u00e1s po odbo\u010den\u00ed na Pakleni\u010dka ulica v\u00edta mohutn\u00e1 skaln\u00e1 br\u00e1na a ja sa neviem do\u010dka\u0165, kedy kone\u010dne zaparkujeme. Na T\u010dkovej kri\u017eovatke sa dr\u017e\u00edme zna\u010denia n\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku a mierne vpravo vch\u00e1dzame do ulice \u017divka Marasovica. Sprev\u00e1dzan\u00ed rozvodnen\u00fdm potokom, s n\u00e1zvom rovnak\u00fdm ako nesie ties\u0148ava, prich\u00e1dzame k ofici\u00e1lnemu vstupu, kde sa kupuj\u00fa l\u00edstky. Sprievodky\u0148a n\u00e1s in\u0161truuje, aby sme si zaobstarali vstupenky<\/a> a pokra\u010dovali autom \u010fal\u0161ie dva kilometre. Nenamietam. Pr\u00edjazdov\u00e1 cesta sa nepr\u00edjemne zu\u017euje. \u0160irok\u00e1 je tak na jedno auto \u010di autobus. Je skoro r\u00e1no a asfaltka vedie len do pr\u00edrody, tak\u017ee v protismere nestret\u00e1vam nikoho. Na viacer\u00fdch miestach s\u00fa popri ceste vytvoren\u00e9 \u0161trkov\u00e9 spevnen\u00e9 plochy, na ktor\u00fdch sa d\u00e1 v pr\u00edpade potreby auto necha\u0165 tie\u017e, my v\u0161ak pokra\u010dujeme a\u017e takmer na koniec. N\u00e1\u0161ho belasomodr\u00e9ho t\u00e1to\u0161a nech\u00e1vame na v\u00e4\u010d\u0161om asfaltovom parkovisku, prez\u00favame sa do turistick\u00fdch top\u00e1nok a vch\u00e1dzame medzi skaly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od prv\u00fdch pe\u0161\u00edch krokov n\u00e1s sprev\u00e1dza Velika Paklenica, potok zmenen\u00fd v\u00fddatn\u00fdmi da\u017e\u010fami predo\u0161l\u00fdch dn\u00ed a t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov na statn\u00fa riavu. Za obchodom so suven\u00edrmi poct\u00edme n\u00e1v\u0161tevou toalety a civiliz\u00e1ciu nech\u00e1vame zdanlivo za sebou. Takto zav\u010das r\u00e1na stret\u00e1vame takmer v\u00fdhradne horolezcov mieriacich k Anica kuk (712 m), presl\u00e1ven\u00e9mu skaln\u00e9mu mas\u00edvu, ktor\u00fdm vedie neprebern\u00e9 mno\u017estvo lezeck\u00fdch ciest. T\u00e1 naj\u013eah\u0161ia je klasifikovan\u00e1 medzin\u00e1rodnou stupnicou ako \u0161tvorka. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pod prv\u00fdm vodop\u00e1dom, niekde uprostred \u00favodn\u00e9ho st\u00fapania serpent\u00ednkami, n\u00e1s v\u00edta turistick\u00e1 zna\u010dka ved\u00faca na Anica kuk norm\u00e1lnou cestou (t.z. nie horolezeck\u00fdm ter\u00e9nom). M\u00f4j pl\u00e1n zah\u0155\u0148al n\u00e1vrat k autu pr\u00e1ve tadia\u013eto -z vrchu okolo jaskyne Luk\u010deva pecina a popod vrchol Anica kuk po chodn\u00edku \u010d\u00edslo 805 nazad do ka\u0148onu. A pr\u00e1ve v tomto bode skon\u010dil sk\u00f4r, ako v\u00f4bec za\u010dal. Chodn\u00edk, ak tu nejak\u00fd v\u00f4bec je, je \u00faplne zaplaven\u00fd vodou. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ke\u010f je sucho, chodn\u00edk priamo kri\u017euje koryto potoka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pokra\u010dujeme \u010falej, niekde vy\u0161\u0161ie by sa mal do rokliny vraca\u0165 chodn\u00edk \u010d\u00edslo 809 ved\u00faci pomedzi Jurasovu glavicu (742 m) a Krivi kuk (636 m). Je s\u00edce strm\u0161\u00ed, ale ak sa ned\u00e1 vr\u00e1ti\u0165 chodn\u00edkom 805, nebudeme ma\u0165 ve\u013emi na v\u00fdber. Odbo\u010dka na osemstodevinu vedie do lesa. Popri potoku sledujeme zna\u010denie, aby sme si u\u017e tu dole skontrolovali stav koryta a \u010di sa budeme vedie\u0165 pri n\u00e1vrate dosta\u0165 na druh\u00fd breh. Nebudeme. Z vody s\u00edce tr\u010dia skaly, ale s\u00fa viac ako do polovice zaplavovan\u00e9 vodou. Pod\u013ea m\u0148a by sme to prebrodili, Janko nechce riskova\u0165. S okru\u017enou trasou spodkom ku chate Planinarski dom a vrchom nazad k autu sa definit\u00edvne l\u00fa\u010dim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vraciame sa na hlavn\u00fa trasu a o p\u00e1r min\u00fat sme pri odbo\u010dke k jaskyni Manita pec (cca 600 m). Napriek tomu, \u017ee p\u00f4vodne v pl\u00e1ne nebola, chlapci si to k nej chc\u00fa vyst\u00fapa\u0165. Je streda a mala by by\u0165 aj otvoren\u00e1. Tristop\u00e4\u0165desiat v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov by sme mali pod\u013ea r\u00e1zcestn\u00edka prekona\u0165 za \u0161tyridsa\u0165 min\u00fat. Nakoniec n\u00e1m to trv\u00e1 rovn\u00fdch p\u00e4\u0165desiat, preto\u017ee sa zdr\u017eiavame vyzliekan\u00edm a oddychovan\u00edm. Da\u017ede maj\u00fa vplyv nie len na potok dole, ale aj na celkov\u00fa vlhkos\u0165 vzduchu v n\u00e1rodnom parku. Hoci nie je nijako extr\u00e9mne hor\u00faco, d\u00fdcha sa zle. P\u00e1r min\u00fat po pol jeden\u00e1stej stoj\u00edme pred vstupom do jaskyne. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na lavi\u010dk\u00e1ch okolo u\u017e posed\u00e1va nieko\u013eko turistov. Sprievodca n\u00e1s informuje, \u017ee najbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed vstup je o jeden\u00e1stej. P\u00fdtam sa ho na teplotu v jaskyni. Vzh\u013eadom na to, \u017ee som ju nemala v pl\u00e1ne, nem\u00e1m ani ja ani Janino \u017eiadne teplej\u0161ie oble\u010denie. Janino m\u00e1 v\u0161ak v\u010faka svojej zimomravosti aspo\u0148 dlh\u00e9 odop\u00ednate\u013en\u00e9 nohavice. Po ceste hore spodky vyzliekal, teraz si ich oblieka a zipsuje nazad. Ja sa spolieham na merino tri\u010dko s dlh\u00fdm ruk\u00e1vom, ktor\u00e9 m\u00e1m v batohu. Troj\u0161tvr\u0165ov\u00e9 leg\u00edny bud\u00fa musie\u0165 pri teplote 9\u00b0C sta\u010di\u0165. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zo sprievodcu sa vyk\u013euje horsk\u00fd vodca. A ke\u010f\u017ee sme sa s Jankom dole dohodli, \u017ee od jaskyne budeme pokra\u010dova\u0165 \u010falej na Zolniij kuk (847 m) a ku chate si to prejdeme vrchom, aby sme sa spodkom vracali, vyu\u017e\u00edvam min\u00faty \u010dakania a d\u00e1vam sa s n\u00edm s mapkou v ruke do re\u010di. Ter\u00e9n som videla pri pl\u00e1novan\u00ed dovolenky, ale osobn\u00e9 sk\u00fasenosti s\u00fa osobn\u00e9 sk\u00fasenosti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od jaskyne pod\u013ea neho u\u017e neexistuje klasick\u00fd turistick\u00fd chodn\u00edk, je potrebn\u00e9 liez\u0165 po skal\u00e1ch a na niektor\u00fdch miestach je trasa isten\u00e1 lanami. Janinovi s\u00edce za\u017eiaria o\u010dk\u00e1, ale tatino si netr\u00fafa. Pravdu povediac, pri tom, ako zle sa mi d\u00fdchalo po\u010das v\u00fd\u0161\u013eapku k jaskyni, nem\u00e1m ani ja potrebu odha\u013eova\u0165 v nezn\u00e1mom ter\u00e9ne svoje limity. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Spr\u00edstupnen\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 jaskyne nie je ve\u013ek\u00e1. Cesta na jej koniec a nazad k v\u00fdchodu n\u00e1m trv\u00e1 asi pol hodinku. Pred t\u00fdm, ne\u017e z pr\u00edjemn\u00e9ho tie\u0148a stromov okolo vstupu do jaskyne vylezieme na ostr\u00e9 slnko, natieram seba aj chlapcov opa\u013eovac\u00edm kr\u00e9mom. Zostupujeme rovnak\u00fdm chodn\u00edkom, ktor\u00fdm sme \u0161\u013eapali hore a v protismere stret\u00e1vame mno\u017estvo turistov. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po pol hodinke sme dolu v ties\u0148ave, dop\u013a\u0148ame tekutiny a pokra\u010dujeme smerom k Planinarskemu domu. Skaly nech\u00e1vame za sebou, trasa pokra\u010duje kr\u00e1snym zelen\u00fdm lesom. Pod\u013ea p\u00f4vodn\u00e9ho pl\u00e1nu sme u\u017e mali by\u0165 na chate. Ja s Janinom sme si dali nejak\u00fa t\u00fa desiatu, \u010do som zobrala so sebou, Janko sa chcel najes\u0165 a\u017e v medzicieli. Kv\u00f4li odbo\u010dke k Manita pec a jej n\u00e1v\u0161teve sa v\u0161ak v\u0161etko \u010dasovo posunulo. Kon\u010d\u00edme v Lugarici, d\u00e1vame si hust\u00fa fazu\u013eov\u00fa polievku s chlebom a op\u00e4\u0165 dop\u013a\u0148ame aj tekutiny. Pokra\u010dova\u0165 \u010falej sa n\u00e1m nechce. Vraciame sa tou istou cestou nazad. Ja s pozn\u00e1mkou v mysli, \u017ee sa sem bud\u00faci rok mus\u00edm vr\u00e1ti\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e1r pozn\u00e1mok na z\u00e1ver<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Po n\u00e1vrate do Bratislavy som sa od kolegu dozvedela, \u017ee potok Velika Paklenica nezvykne by\u0165 a\u017e takto ve\u013emi rozvodnen\u00fd. Chod\u00ed do rokliny pravidelne a za\u017eil ju na jar aj s vyschnut\u00fdm korytom. Chodn\u00edk \u010d\u00edslo 805, ktor\u00fdm sme sa p\u00f4vodne chceli vraca\u0165 nazad k autu, by teda za menej da\u017edivej jari bol \u00faplne schodn\u00fd. Vedie pravdepodobne pr\u00e1ve korytom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Horsk\u00fd vodca, ktor\u00fd robil sprievodcu jasky\u0148ou, n\u00e1s upozornil, \u017ee ak chce \u010dlovek vy\u0161liapa\u0165 na niektor\u00fd z vrcholov Velebitu (\u010di u\u017e v NP Paklenica alebo NP Velebit), ide\u00e1lne je od j\u00fana za\u010d\u00edna\u0165 okolo \u0161tvrtej r\u00e1no. T\u00fdm p\u00e1dom ste na vrchole sk\u00f4r, ako za\u010dne pripeka\u0165 jadransk\u00e9 slnie\u010dko a ke\u010f za\u010dn\u00fa st\u00fapa\u0165 teploty, u\u017e len zostupujete. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dazka pr\u00edjazdov\u00e1 cesta na parkovisko priamo na za\u010diatku ties\u0148avy je pravdepodobne pr\u00edstupn\u00e1 len r\u00e1no, aby nedoch\u00e1dzalo ku kol\u00edznym situ\u00e1ci\u00e1m, kedy by sa vozidl\u00e1 sna\u017eili v protismere jedno druh\u00e9mu vyhn\u00fa\u0165. Ke\u010f sme sa toti\u017e vracali poobede nazad, z\u00e1vora v smere DO parku bola dole. V spojitosti s relat\u00edvne pr\u00e1zdnym parkoviskom, na ktorom sme mali auto aj my predpoklad\u00e1m, \u017ee r\u00e1no pracovn\u00edci parku pustia za z\u00e1voru tak\u00fd po\u010det \u00e1ut, ko\u013eko je za \u0148ou parkovac\u00edch miest, a potom ju jednodoucho zatvoria a \u010falej u\u017e nikoho autom nep\u00fa\u0161\u0165aj\u00fa.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ke\u010f v druhej polovici m\u00e1ja napadlo v talianskych Dolomitoch meter nov\u00e9ho snehu, moje pl\u00e1ny na j\u00fanov\u00fa dovolenku v hor\u00e1ch sa definit\u00edvne rozplynuli. A ke\u010f Janko na\u0161iel v Srime ne\u010faleko \u0160ibeniku pr\u00edjemn\u00fd apartm\u00e1n za ve\u013emi dobr\u00fa cenu, neost\u00e1valo mi in\u00e9 ako n\u00e1js\u0165 si program v Chorv\u00e1tsku. Ani vo sne mi v tej chv\u00edli nenapadlo, \u017ee ma […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4540,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[55],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4559","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chorvatsko","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4559","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4559"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4559\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4572,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4559\/revisions\/4572"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4540"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4559"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4559"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4559"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}