{"id":4255,"date":"2023-05-03T20:15:34","date_gmt":"2023-05-03T18:15:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4255"},"modified":"2023-08-27T12:22:48","modified_gmt":"2023-08-27T10:22:48","slug":"vlacikom-na-schafberg-a-pesi-dolu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=4255","title":{"rendered":"Vl\u00e1\u010dikom na Schafberg (a pe\u0161i dolu)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Prv\u00fd m\u00e1jov\u00fd pondelok sa bud\u00edme do chladn\u00e9ho r\u00e1na. Pod\u013ea predpovede by malo by\u0165 jasno a slne\u010dno. Ke\u010f v\u0161ak odhrniem z\u00e1vesy v izbe, zlat\u00fd disk na oblohe h\u013ead\u00e1m m\u00e1rne. Obla\u010dnos\u0165 je s\u00edce vysok\u00e1, ale tak\u00e1 t\u00e1 „mlie\u010dna“, ktor\u00e1 zni\u017euje vidite\u013enos\u0165 a pocitovo aj teplotu. Aj ke\u010f sa slnie\u010dko sna\u017e\u00ed predra\u0165 pomedzi biely z\u00e1voj, dar\u00ed sa mu to len chv\u00ed\u013eami. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K\u00fdm bal\u00edm posledn\u00e9 veci a \u010dak\u00e1m, a\u017e sa Janino poum\u00fdva a prezle\u010die, vyh\u013ead\u00e1vam v mobile web kameru<\/a> zo Schafbergu. Z\u00e1bery z kamery na m\u0148a maj\u00fa katalyza\u010dn\u00fd \u00fa\u010dinok. Poh\u00e1\u0148am die\u0165a, aby sme \u010do najsk\u00f4r mohli \u00eds\u0165 na ra\u0148ajky a vypadn\u00fa\u0165 k jazeru St. Wolfgangsee. V severnej \u010dasti So\u013enej komory je n\u00e1dherne. O pol deviatej u\u017e sed\u00edme v aute na ceste z Gosau. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tam niekde v strede vzadu tr\u010d\u00ed Hochgolling \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

L\u00edstky sa daj\u00fa k\u00fapi\u0165 aj online<\/a>, ale trochu sa toho ob\u00e1vam. Neviem odhadn\u00fa\u0165, ako dlho mi re\u00e1lne bude trva\u0165 cesta a pl\u00e1novan\u00fd pr\u00edjazd pod\u013ea navig\u00e1cie beriem sk\u00f4r ako orienta\u010dn\u00fd. Ako najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed probl\u00e9m vid\u00edm parkovisko. Napriek tomu, \u017ee som si v\u0161etko de\u0148 vopred pozerala na internete a viem, \u017ee h\u013ead\u00e1m parkovisko P7<\/a>, v tejto oblasti som doteraz nebola. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

O pol desiatej mi pani pri okienku pred\u00e1va l\u00edstky na jazdu vl\u00e1\u010dikom hore o 10:10. Tie o 9:35 u\u017e s\u00fa vypredan\u00e9. Ke\u010f si p\u00fdtam l\u00edstky len smerom hore, upozor\u0148uje ma, \u017ee zostup trv\u00e1 tri hodiny a hore je e\u0161te sneh. Viem. Preto m\u00e1me zimn\u00fa v\u00fdbavu. A preto som sa r\u00e1no tak pon\u00e1h\u013eala. To jej samozrejme nehovor\u00edm. Len slu\u0161ne po\u010fakujem, zaplat\u00edm a vezmem si l\u00edstky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K\u00fdm \u010dak\u00e1me na odchod vlaku, mot\u00e1me sa po pri\u013eahlom n\u00e1bre\u017e\u00ed a ja kontrolujem, \u010di m\u00e1me v\u0161etko. Hoci je pod\u013ea teplomera hore pribli\u017ene desa\u0165 stup\u0148ov nad nulou, neviem pos\u00fadi\u0165, \u010di budeme alebo nebudeme potrebova\u0165 ma\u010dky. Pre istotu ich m\u00e1m v batohu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vlak je pln\u00fd do posledn\u00e9ho sedadla. Cesta trv\u00e1 zhruba pol hodinu a je viac utrpen\u00edm ako z\u00e1\u017eitkom. Na \u00fazkych dreven\u00fdch laviciach sa na seba tla\u010d\u00edme, batohy medzi nohami mus\u00edm neust\u00e1le dr\u017ea\u0165, aby nevr\u00e1\u017eali do \u013eud\u00ed sediacich oproti n\u00e1m. Vzduch vo vag\u00f3ne je po p\u00e1r min\u00fatach ned\u00fdchate\u013en\u00fd. Akur\u00e1t prem\u00fd\u0161\u013eam nad t\u00fdm, ak\u00e1 \u00famorn\u00e1 mus\u00ed by\u0165 t\u00e1to jazda uprostred leta, ke\u010f niekoho napadne otvori\u0165 okienko. A po \u0148om \u010fal\u0161ie a \u010fal\u0161ie. Ke\u010f to ist\u00e9 urobia aj \u013eudia na opa\u010dnej strane, vlakom sa za\u010dne prem\u00e1va\u0165 pr\u00edjemn\u00fd \u010derstv\u00fd vzduch. Nedostatok kysl\u00edka je za\u017eehnan\u00fd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sed\u00edme uprostred, tak\u017ee nevid\u00edme na \u013eav\u00fa ani prav\u00fa stranu. Pud sebaz\u00e1chovy mi na\u0161epk\u00e1va, aby som \u010falej pekne obdivovala Dachstein a ostatn\u00e9 vysok\u00e9 alpsk\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty, ktor\u00e9 sa n\u00e1m postupne odkr\u00fdvaj\u00fa, a aby som sa nesna\u017eila zisti\u0165, ak\u00fd ve\u013ek\u00fd zr\u00e1z je pod nami. A tak sa nesna\u017e\u00edm. Miesto toho sa prid\u00e1vam ku zborov\u00e9mu „oooo“ a „waaaaau“ ako st\u00fapame vy\u0161\u0161ie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V budove vrchnej stanice sa lep\u0161ie obliekam. Blaho\u017eel\u00e1m si k spont\u00e1nnemu n\u00e1padu \u00eds\u0165 do Parndorfu, ktor\u00e9ho v\u00fdsledkom bola k\u00fapa teplej (aj ke\u010f tenkej) Columbia bundy s omni-heat technol\u00f3giou. Janino sa v turistick\u00fdch top\u00e1nkach vrhne do prvej kopy snehu, ktor\u00e1 mu pr\u00edde do cesty, a za\u010dne sa v nej ja\u0161i\u0165. Z batoha vyber\u00e1m snehule a vol\u00e1m ho, aby sa \u0161iel prezu\u0165. Neviem, kedy naposledy som ho videla tak\u00e9ho \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9ho pri poh\u013eade na oby\u010dajn\u00e9 snehule. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tie zasne\u017een\u00e9 zuby, to je Dachstein. Vpravo pod n\u00edm (\u010do nevidie\u0165) je Gosausee<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K\u00fdm sa on bl\u00e1zni v kope snehu a rob\u00ed si \u0161m\u00fdkalu, ja sa koch\u00e1m v\u00fdh\u013eadmi. Na \u013eavo od Dachsteinu vyk\u00faka Grimming, okolo ktor\u00e9ho sme v piatok i\u0161li do Gosau. Vid\u00edm aj Zinken a Hoher Sarstein, ktor\u00e9 m\u00e1m v r\u00e1mci pozn\u00e1vania \u0160tajerska na pl\u00e1ne zdola\u0165 tento rok. Priamo predo mnou sa do zasne\u017eenej v\u00fd\u0161ky vyp\u00edna Hochk\u04e7nig, kr\u00e1\u013e pohoria Niedere Tauern. Prem\u00fd\u0161\u013eam, \u010di je mo\u017en\u00e9, aby som videla aj Grossglockner ako najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed vrchol rak\u00faskych \u00c1lp, ale po chv\u00edli si pomyselne \u0165uk\u00e1m na \u010delo, \u017ee na to je pr\u00edli\u0161 \u010faleko. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V chate nad stanicou vlaku si d\u00e1vame tepl\u00e9 jedlo a pred dvan\u00e1stou sa zber\u00e1me na zostup. Najsk\u00f4r sa v\u0161ak prejdeme okolo celej chaty, aby som si u\u017eila aj v\u00fdh\u013ead na jazer\u00e1 na severe. Janino str\u00e1ca trpezlivos\u0165. Vraciame sa k vl\u00e1\u010diku a na lavi\u010dke si obaja ob\u00favame ma\u010diatka. Aj ke\u010f sa sneh top\u00ed, c\u00edtim sa istej\u0161ie, ak ich m\u00e1me obaja na noh\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zostup za\u010d\u00edna strm\u00fdm pad\u00e1kom. Mus\u00edme na\u0161\u013eapova\u0165 tvrdo na p\u00e4ty, aby sa n\u00e1m v snehu aj s ma\u010diatkami ne\u0161m\u00fdkalo. Krpec je nevrl\u00fd a podr\u00e1\u017eden\u00fd. Pe\u0161\u00ed zostup dole si nevymyslel. Keby bolo na \u0148om, i\u0161li by sme znova vlakom. (Keby bolo skuto\u010dne na \u0148om, u\u017e by sme tou dobou boli v Bratislave.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Snehov\u00e1 vrstva nie je kompaktn\u00e1. Biele polia s\u00fa strategicky rozmiestnen\u00e9 tak, aby sme pri zostupe neminuli ani jedno, \u010do ako by sme sa mu chceli vyhn\u00fa\u0165. A k\u00fdm v snehu ma\u010dky ve\u013emi nepom\u00e1haj\u00fa, v blate n\u00e1s brzdia a dod\u00e1vaj\u00fa istotu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prudk\u00e9 klesanie nepo\u013eavuje a ja u\u017e si za\u010d\u00ednam nad\u00e1va\u0165, \u010do za \u0161ialenos\u0165 som si to zase vymyslela. Po pol hodine nech\u00e1vame posledn\u00e9 snehov\u00e9 pole za sebou a zablaten\u00e9 ma\u010dky vyz\u00favam. Prehov\u00e1ram na to aj Janina, ale ten si ide svoje. Pokra\u010duje v ma\u010dk\u00e1ch a snehuliach a oznamuje mi, \u017ee ON mi povie, kedy sa chce prezu\u0165. Nech\u00e1vam to teda na \u0148om. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hodina vytrvalo prudk\u00e9ho klesania je za nami. V medzistanici vlaku si sad\u00e1me na lavi\u010dku. Ja si d\u00e1vam such\u00e9 pono\u017eky, Janino si okrem pono\u017eiek d\u00e1va aj turistick\u00e9 top\u00e1nky. Snehule a ma\u010dky putuj\u00fa do batoha. \u010eal\u0161ie viac ako dve hodiny u\u017e kles\u00e1me s\u00edce miernej\u0161ie, ale bez po\u013eavovania nazad k jazeru. Posledn\u00fa hodinu pred pr\u00edchodom do civiliz\u00e1cie m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee niekto pred nami to jazero zatl\u00e1\u010da hlb\u0161ie a hlb\u0161ie do zeme. Nepribli\u017euje sa. Aspo\u0148 nie tak r\u00fdchlo, ako by som si priala. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mot\u00e1me sa pomedzi rodinn\u00e9 domky a penzi\u00f3niky v meste\u010dku a Janino splieta pl\u00e1ny na to, ko\u013eko a akej zmrzliny si d\u00e1 v informa\u010dnom centre dole. Ke\u010f kone\u010dne vid\u00edm parkovisko, je mi jedno, \u010di si d\u00e1 jednu alebo p\u00e4\u0165, som rada, \u017ee sme v cieli. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pri st\u00e1nku so zmrzlinou nie je ani noha. Mot\u00e1me sa tam, post\u00e1vame, ale nikto neprich\u00e1dza. Pracovn\u00ed\u010dky informa\u010dn\u00e9ho centra maj\u00fa dos\u0165 pr\u00e1ce s prich\u00e1dzaj\u00facimi turistami, ktor\u00ed chc\u00fa vyu\u017ei\u0165 posledn\u00e9 jazdy na kopec. Chcem sedie\u0165 v aute a mieri\u0165 domov. Navrhujem preto drobcovi kompromis. Niekde mus\u00edme \u010do najsk\u00f4r natankova\u0165 – m\u00f4\u017ee si teda na benz\u00ednke vybra\u0165 nanuk. Nenamieta. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Prv\u00fd m\u00e1jov\u00fd pondelok sa bud\u00edme do chladn\u00e9ho r\u00e1na. Pod\u013ea predpovede by malo by\u0165 jasno a slne\u010dno. Ke\u010f v\u0161ak odhrniem z\u00e1vesy v izbe, zlat\u00fd disk na oblohe h\u013ead\u00e1m m\u00e1rne. Obla\u010dnos\u0165 je s\u00edce vysok\u00e1, ale tak\u00e1 t\u00e1 „mlie\u010dna“, ktor\u00e1 zni\u017euje vidite\u013enos\u0165 a pocitovo aj teplotu. Aj ke\u010f sa slnie\u010dko sna\u017e\u00ed predra\u0165 pomedzi biely z\u00e1voj, dar\u00ed sa mu […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4304,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[34,56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4255","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-salzkammergut","category-vylety-s-detmi","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4255","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4255"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4255\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4313,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4255\/revisions\/4313"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4304"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4255"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4255"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4255"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}