{"id":2444,"date":"2023-01-05T11:12:33","date_gmt":"2023-01-05T09:12:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/yano.klimo.sk\/?p=2444"},"modified":"2023-01-18T19:28:21","modified_gmt":"2023-01-18T17:28:21","slug":"voisthalerh%cf%8btte-graf-meran-steig-hauslalm-bodenbauer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/?p=2444","title":{"rendered":"Voisthalerh\u03cbtte \u2013 Graf Meran Steig \u2013 Hauslalm \u2013 Bodenbauer"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

V nede\u013eu sa na chate Voisthalerh\u03cbtte bud\u00edme do kr\u00e1sneho slne\u010dn\u00e9ho d\u0148a. Kr\u00e1tko po siedmej sme na ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch a o \u00f4smej odch\u00e1dzame z chaty. Po sobote sme obaja unaven\u00ed, preto napriek kr\u00e1snemu po\u010dasiu zva\u017eujeme priamy n\u00e1vrat k Bodenbauer cez Trawiessattel. S\u00edce ma to l\u00e1ka hore na planinu, ale beriem oh\u013ead na to, \u010do syn po\u010das predo\u0161l\u00e9ho d\u0148a zdolal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ke\u010f prich\u00e1dzame ku odbo\u010dke na Graf Meran Steig, Jan\u00edk mi ozn\u00e1mi, \u017ee sa rozhodol, ale nepovie mi ako. Vraj uvid\u00edm, kam odbo\u010d\u00ed. Vn\u00fatorne sa zmierujem s t\u00fdm, \u017ee ideme st\u00fapa\u0165 hore cez Trawiessattel nazad do Bodenbauer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Poh\u013ead na die\u0165a nastupuj\u00face na Graf Meran Steig ma pr\u00edjemne prekvap\u00ed. Pre istotu sa ho p\u00fdtam, \u010di si je rozhodnut\u00edm ist\u00fd a upozor\u0148ujem ho, \u017ee to bude dlh\u00fd v\u00fdlet. Nem\u00e1 s t\u00fdm probl\u00e9m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Veselo si kamz\u00edkuje meter za metrom, \u0161kriabe sa po skal\u00e1ch, prelieza men\u0161ie a v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie skaln\u00e9 prahy a e\u0161te mi ochotne p\u00f3zuje na fotky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pribli\u017ene po jeden a pol hodine prich\u00e1dzame na kri\u017eovatku, ktor\u00e1 ukon\u010duje Graf Meran Steig. Neukon\u010duje v\u0161ak na\u0161e st\u00fapanie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Z dia\u013eky n\u00e1m zrazu niekto m\u00e1va. Pozriem sa lep\u0161ie a uvedomujem si, \u017ee je to p\u00e1n, ktor\u00fd s nami na chate zdie\u013eal izbu. Pravdepodobne i\u0161iel z chaty hore cez Jegermeyer Steig. Tie\u017e som ho zva\u017eovala, ale d\u00fafali sme, \u017ee znova uvid\u00edme kozoro\u017ece. Neuvideli sme, boli povyliezan\u00e9 hore na pasienkoch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jan\u00edk si dr\u017e\u00ed slu\u0161n\u00e9 tempo, s \u00fasmevom na tv\u00e1ri sa zdrav\u00ed v\u0161etk\u00fdm \u013eu\u010fom, ktor\u00ed n\u00e1s m\u00ed\u0148aj\u00fa a st\u00e1le mi nie\u010do vysvet\u013euje a rozpr\u00e1va. Slnie\u010dko pripek\u00e1, obloha je takmer bez obl\u00e1\u010dika. Ke\u010f sa na chv\u00ed\u013eu zastavujem nad jednou z priepast\u00ed, ktor\u00e1 je st\u00e1le vystlan\u00e1 snehov\u00fdm po\u013eom, aby som sa napila, kon\u0161tatujem, \u017ee som skuto\u010dne rada, \u017ee v sobotu bolo hnusne. V \u00fapeku by sa mi tri hodiny dolinou a potom \u010fal\u0161iu hodinu a pol zaistenou cestou a od bivaku \u010falej \u0161liapa\u0165 na vrchol nechcelo. \u00daplne mi sta\u010dia dve hodiny r\u00e1no, aby sme sa dostali ku Schiestlhaus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Je p\u00e1r min\u00fat po desiatej, ke\u010f kone\u010dne vid\u00edme chatu. Zhora na n\u00e1s h\u013ead\u00ed \u017eelezn\u00fd vrcholov\u00fd kr\u00ed\u017e Hochschwabu a ob\u010das sa na oblohe objavuj\u00fa prv\u00e9 \u201esimpsonovsk\u00e9\u201c obl\u00e1\u010diky. Vch\u00e1dzame do chaty, batohy nech\u00e1vame v prednej \u010dasti a s malou du\u0161i\u010dkou ideme do jed\u00e1lne. Na rozdiel od sobotn\u00e9ho poobedia je pr\u00e1zdna. Jan\u00edk si vyber\u00e1 miesto na sedenie a p\u00fdta si p\u00e1rky. Dlhovlas\u00fd chalan za barom sa pri bran\u00ed objedn\u00e1vky usmieva od ucha k uchu a p\u00fdta sa, odkia\u013e ideme. Referujem v\u010deraj\u0161iu trasu a dod\u00e1vam, \u017ee teraz \u0161liapeme od chaty Voisthalerh\u03cbtte cez Graf Meran Steig a m\u00e1me v pl\u00e1ne pokra\u010dova\u0165 po planine ku Hauslalm a dole do Bodenbauer. Neveriacky sa naklon\u00ed a pozrie sa na Janina s ot\u00e1zkou, \u010di fakt pre\u0161iel G\u00b4Hackte. Opl\u00e1cam mu \u00fasmev, pritak\u00e1vam, beriem si nealkoholick\u00e9 pivo a Jan\u00edkovi vodu a pri stole spolo\u010dne \u010dak\u00e1me na jeho p\u00e1rky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e1r min\u00fat po jeden\u00e1stej odch\u00e1dzame zo Schiestlhausu a mierime ku Fleischer-Biwakschachtel. Spodn\u00e1 cesta od chaty k bivaku je skoro pr\u00e1zdna. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nie \u017ee by tu neboli turisti \u2013 oni len mieria ku vrcholov\u00e9mu kr\u00ed\u017eu. My sme ho nav\u0161t\u00edvili v\u010dera a zbyto\u010dne sa zdr\u017eiava\u0165 a nabera\u0165 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 metre, ktor\u00e9 nemus\u00edme, sa n\u00e1m nechce. Sto metrov hore-dole, v\u00fdh\u013eady m\u00e1me n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 aj zo spodnej trasy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A ak som si myslela, \u017ee to v nede\u013eu bude iba prech\u00e1dzka po planine, u\u017e prv\u00e9 min\u00faty ma vyv\u00e1dzaj\u00fa z omylu. Na niektor\u00fdch miestach op\u00e4\u0165 lezieme po suti a skal\u00e1ch v relat\u00edvne strmom svahu, ale aspo\u0148 sa m\u00f4j mal\u00fd kamz\u00edko\u2013kozoro\u017eec nenud\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cesta k bivaku n\u00e1m namiesto pol hodiny trv\u00e1 nie\u010do cez 40 min\u00fat. Ak budeme pokra\u010dova\u0165 t\u00fdmto tempom, nebudeme pri aute ani o \u0161iestej ve\u010der. Prib\u00fada oblakov, ale st\u00e1le sa to dr\u017e\u00ed v medziach \u201esimpsonovskej\u201c cukrovej vaty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pred nami dlh\u00fd \u00fasek l\u00fakami, po ktorom sa ide ove\u013ea pohodlnej\u0161ie a bez sk\u00e1l, skaliek a kame\u0148ov r\u00f4znej ve\u013ekosti je to oddych aj pre nohy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cesta chv\u00ed\u013eu kles\u00e1 a chv\u00ed\u013eu st\u00fapa, ale nie je to ni\u010d prudk\u00e9 a ani nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9. Teda, a\u017e po \u00fasek pod Hochwartom (2210 m). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tu prudko kles\u00e1me do sedielka, aby sme vyst\u00fapali k snehov\u00fdm poliam a suti so skalami, ktor\u00fdmi sa mus\u00edme predra\u0165. Na viacer\u00fdch miestach s\u00fa v skale ukotven\u00e9 re\u0165aze, ktor\u00fdch sa \u010dlovek v pr\u00edpade potreby m\u00f4\u017ee chyti\u0165, ale trasa sa d\u00e1 v pohode zvl\u00e1dnu\u0165 aj bez nich.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Spestrenie inak pohodln\u00e9ho turistick\u00e9ho chodn\u00edka kon\u010d\u00ed niekde pod Gro\u03b2er Beilsteinom (2015 m) a \u010falej znova pokra\u010dujeme pr\u00edjemn\u00fdm hlinen\u00fdm a tr\u00e1vnat\u00fdm ter\u00e9nom, ktor\u00fd je len miestami popretk\u00e1van\u00fd skalkami. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Od tohto miesta u\u017e len kles\u00e1me. Pred sebou vid\u00edm Zinken (1926 m) a v dia\u013eke pod nami dolinu, v ktorej je penzi\u00f3n Bodenbauer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Janino si svi\u0161t\u00ed rezk\u00fdm tempom dole a ja ho pribli\u017ene v polovici zostupu ku odbo\u010dke na Zinken zastavujem, aby som si na kolen\u00e1 navliekla ort\u00e9zy. Poh\u013ead do mapy a na na\u0161u polohu mi pre ne toti\u017e neve\u0161t\u00ed ni\u010d dobr\u00e9. Dost\u00e1vame sa ku zna\u010dke, ktor\u00e1 hl\u00e1si, \u017ee k Hauslalm je to hodina. Pozer\u00e1m na hodinky a prekvapene zis\u0165ujem, \u017ee to, \u010do n\u00e1m pod\u013ea zna\u010diek malo trva\u0165 tri hodiny, sme nakoniec pre\u0161li ani nie za 2,5 h. Zostupujeme do kosodreviny a dost\u00e1vame sa na \u00fazky, skalkami olemovan\u00fd zostupov\u00fd chodn\u00edk. Klesanie je ve\u013emi prudk\u00e9 a nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9, nepr\u00edjemnej\u0161ie ako klesanie cez Graf Meran Steig. Prechod n\u00edm n\u00e1m zaberie asi pol hodinu, a ke\u010f sa pozriem na appku kompass.de<\/a>, aby som zistila, kde sa nach\u00e1dzame, s hr\u00f4zou v o\u010diach zis\u0165ujem, \u017ee nie sme poriadne ani v \u0161tvrtine zostupovej cesty k chate. Pred sebou vid\u00edm skaln\u00e9 steny Buchbergkogelu (1700 m), pod ktor\u00fdm je chata a ktor\u00fd si pam\u00e4t\u00e1m spred dvoch t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov \u2013 no st\u00e1le s\u00fa \u010faleko. Ke\u010f sa klesanie zmierni, dar\u00ed sa n\u00e1m nabra\u0165 lep\u0161ie tempo a ponad pekn\u00fa \u00fazku dolinku H\u00e4useltrog prech\u00e1dzame svi\u017enej\u0161ie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Je 14.15 a mne je pri poh\u013eade na \u010derven\u00fa bodku ozna\u010duj\u00facu v mobile na\u0161u polohu jasn\u00e9, \u017ee do hodiny pri chate nebudeme. Nakoniec k nej prich\u00e1dzame takmer o tri\u0161tvrte na tri. Napriek tomu, \u017ee som sa pohr\u00e1vala s my\u0161lienkou da\u0165 si tu pauzu pokra\u010dujeme v zostupe. Vieme, \u010do n\u00e1s najbli\u017e\u0161iu hodinu a pol \u010dak\u00e1, zostup sme absolvovali pred dvomi t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ami, ke\u010f sme k Bodenbauer i\u0161li od Gr\u03cbner See.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ani neviem pre\u010do, ale tento raz sa mi klesanie tak\u00e9 protivn\u00e9 nezd\u00e1. Mo\u017eno je to t\u00fdm, \u017ee sme na zostupe asi dve hodiny a mojim noh\u00e1m je to jedno. Mo\u017eno je to ort\u00e9zami, ktor\u00e9 mi dr\u017eia kolen\u00e1 a na rozdiel od predch\u00e1dzaj\u00facej t\u00fary ich nec\u00edtim hne\u010f po prv\u00fdch piatich metroch. \u00danava sa v\u0161ak aj tak za\u010d\u00edna prejavova\u0165. Nohy neposl\u00fachaj\u00fa ako by mali a ob\u010das sa mi stane, \u017ee zle st\u00fapim a skon\u010d\u00edm na zemi. V\u017edy to v\u0161ak dok\u00e1\u017eem nejako vykry\u0165 a bez zranen\u00ed \u010di udierania pokra\u010dujem \u010falej. Pri jednom p\u00e1de spoza chrbta po\u010dujem, \u017ee m\u00e1m by\u0165 opatrn\u00e1. Za nami kr\u00e1\u010da star\u0161\u00ed p\u00e1n a vyzved\u00e1, odkia\u013e ideme. L\u00ed\u010dim mu teda na\u0161u dvojd\u0148ov\u00fa dobrodru\u017en\u00fa cestu a on uznanlivo k\u00fdve hlavou k m\u00f4jmu synovi. Popraje n\u00e1m ve\u013ea \u0161\u0165astia a \u017eiaden \u00faraz, predbieha n\u00e1s a svoj\u00edm tempom pokra\u010duje \u010falej.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e1me za sebou prv\u00fdch viac ako dvesto v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov a dost\u00e1vame sa zhruba do polovice zostupu. Na \u010derven\u00fa zna\u010dku sa tu nap\u00e1ja \u0161irok\u00e1 lesn\u00e1 cesta, po ktorej chcelo moje zlat\u00e9 die\u0165a pokra\u010dova\u0165 u\u017e minule. Vtedy sme na to v\u0161ak nemali \u010das. Teraz sch\u00e1dzame zo zna\u010dky a s\u00edce obch\u00e1dzkou, ale o to pohodlnej\u0161\u00edm klesan\u00edm pokra\u010dujeme do cie\u013ea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sto v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov prejde ani nevieme ako a sme op\u00e4\u0165 pri \u010dervenej zna\u010dke. Lesn\u00e1 cesta tu \u010falej pokra\u010duje pomerne ve\u013ekou ok\u013eukou a ja by som najrad\u0161ej u\u017e bola dole. S ve\u013ekou nev\u00f4\u013eou a patri\u010dn\u00fdmi protestami zo strany najmlad\u0161ieho \u010dlena dobrodru\u017enej v\u00fdpravy vch\u00e1dzame do lesa. Prejdem p\u00e1r krokov a zanad\u00e1vam. M\u00e1me za sebou odhadom tri hodiny neust\u00e1leho klesania r\u00f4znej intenzity. Ort\u00e9za-neort\u00e9za, \u013eav\u00e9 koleno sa hl\u00e1si o pozornos\u0165. Aj napriek bolesti vel\u00edm pokra\u010dova\u0165 rovno po zna\u010dke. Korene, hlina, sem-tam kamienky, s klesaj\u00facimi v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdmi metrami narastaj\u00faca teplota ovzdu\u0161ia. Pot\u00edm sa ako som\u00e1r v kufri a chrb\u00e1t zabudol, \u017ee ma kv\u00f4li \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9mu batohu m\u00e1 bolie\u0165. Asi ho prehlu\u0161ila boles\u0165 v kolene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vych\u00e1dzame z lesa a bez toho, aby sme si s Janinom \u010doko\u013evek povedali, obaja sa nap\u00e1jame na \u0161irok\u00fa lesn\u00fa cestu. U\u017e \u017eiadne prudk\u00e9 zostupy. S\u00fa \u0161tyri hodiny a pred nami posledn\u00fdch p\u00e1r sto metrov k autu. A ku kol\u00e1\u010diku v Bodenbauer. \u201eMamina, my sme si spravili okruh!<\/em>\u201c, kri\u010d\u00ed nad\u0161ene moje die\u0165a, ke\u010f sa vraciame k miestu, od ktor\u00e9ho sa cesta od hostinca rozde\u013euje \u2013 jedna vedie k Hauslalm a druh\u00e1 na Hochschwab. \u00c1no, spravili sme si poriadny okruh. A vid\u00edm auto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Spoten\u00ed a zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00ed mierime najsk\u00f4r k nemu. Vo vn\u00fatri si vyzliekame prepoten\u00e9 oble\u010denie, pono\u017eky, vyz\u00favame top\u00e1nky a obliekame sa do \u010dist\u00e9ho. Na nohy len \u013eahk\u00e9 barefooty a Janino sand\u00e1le. \u0160pinav\u00e9 veci nah\u00e1d\u017eem do mal\u00e9ho modr\u00e9ho kufra, zavriem auto a ideme si odd\u00fdchnu\u0165. Na terase penzi\u00f3nu je plno, ale hlavne tu m\u00e1m kone\u010dne internetov\u00e9 pripojenie (wi-fi penzi\u00f3nu, \u017eiadny in\u00fd sign\u00e1l tu nie je a heslo v\u00e1m povedia len v pr\u00edpade, \u017ee ste tam ubytovan\u00ed). Hl\u00e1sime sa domov a dohadujeme sa, \u010do n\u00e1m tat\u00edk priprav\u00ed na ve\u010deru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V nede\u013eu sa na chate Voisthalerh\u03cbtte bud\u00edme do kr\u00e1sneho slne\u010dn\u00e9ho d\u0148a. Kr\u00e1tko po siedmej sme na ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch a o \u00f4smej odch\u00e1dzame z chaty. Po sobote sme obaja unaven\u00ed, preto napriek kr\u00e1snemu po\u010dasiu zva\u017eujeme priamy n\u00e1vrat k Bodenbauer cez Trawiessattel. S\u00edce ma to l\u00e1ka hore na planinu, ale beriem oh\u013ead na to, \u010do syn po\u010das predo\u0161l\u00e9ho […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2708,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2444","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hochschwab","eq-blocks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2444","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2444"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2444\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3669,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2444\/revisions\/3669"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2708"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2444"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2444"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hiking-guide.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2444"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}